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Liberon Wax sticks are good, you could also try Konig Hardwax which is melted into the holes and then you use a spirit based graining pens to do the fine graining detail? As it's name suggests Hardwax is used on areas which might experience wear and tear. Otherwise I'd go for the Liberon Wax...

Hi George, If you're looking for an oil then I'd go for Danish Oil from Smith & Rodger. This specific brand produces a satin/matt finish, is very durable and will not the change the colour of the timber in comparison to other oils. 2-3 coats are recommended leaving approximately 9 hours...

Osmo Polyx Oil only comes in satin and matt finishes - even the satin is quite dull. What about trying Liberon's Finishing Oil, it produces a higher sheen and will certainly protect the doors.

Thanks for bring to my attention awbcm. So many options..... You could try the traditional Shellac Sanding Sealer and wax option which is perfect for skirting and doors but perhaps not such a good choice for handrails. SSS & Wax produces (IMO) one of the nicest looking subtle silk/satin...

You could try a couple of products either Butinox 4 Mahogany or Woodshield Mahogany. They should only alter your wood slightly. In hindsight it is probably best to try and get a sample of these products to test them on a small inconspicuous area. Hope this helps

Aah a message from the beautiful kingdom of Fife. This is a difficult one. Most exterior coatings contain UV filters in the form of pigments. As you are looking for a clear coating these products are not an option. We have recently run a variety of tests on clear exterior coatings and...

It all depends on the manufacturer and the solvent blend that has been used to make the Danish Oil. More often than not, so long as the danish oil has been allowed to completely cure, you shouldn't have a problem. If you want to make sure try the old coin test. Apply a coat of PU Varnish...

In my opinion you'll need something more durable than an wax. I'd recommend you apply a coat of waterbased stain and then overcoat it with a waterbased lacquer in a Matt finish. The concentration of stain can be adjusted by either thinning it with water to make it lighter or applying more...

Hi Crazy Horse, Every manufacturer's Danish Oil is different. However, the one that Smith & Rodger manufacture http://www.frenchpolishes.com probably turns the timber the least yellow compared to all it's counterparts. If you want to make sure the timber doesn't change at all then you...

Agree with Zampa you need a shellac based white primer. The zinser range is an option along with Smith & Rodger's Multiseal.

What about cleaning the entire surface with Joynes Wade Waxless Cleaning Polish? It will definitely remove any built dirt and grime, then you can paint over the top.

Sorry amendment to last post, the product I'd recommend is called 'multiseal'.

Have you tried a multiseal? It's a white shellac knotting solution that will definitely work.

Have you heard of a product called Patina? Well it behaves quite like wax in that it penetrates the surface and doesn't form a layer of lacquer. It comes in a gel form and I must admit the tests we've done on it are very impressive. it's not cheap however, it does say on the tin that it's...

I saw the sign in the sky and logged on! To be honest there isn't much I can add to awbcm's spot on advice. If you wish to avoid a slight yellowing then the only option is to go for a clear exterior waterbased lacquer. One thing I would add is please take great care when applying any...

If you wet the entire area with a damp cloth you will see what real condition the floor is in and whether it is worth sealing with a protective coating.

I'd recommend either a 12" lambswool applicator or as big a brush as you can handle. Rollers can leave spark marks, I've no experience of using a sponge.

Great pictures, it only confirms my opinion that two coats of shellac sanding sealer and a coat of wax polish will enhance their appearance while retaining the traditional feel and look. You probably know this but SSS is designed to be sanded after each coat thereby pushing the shellac into...

Sorry everyone, only back from holiday a week ago and hadn't checked my profile, thanks for the kind words awbcm. The advice you gave, in my opinion, is spot on. Clean with meths, sand, apply a couple of coats of shellac sanding sealer and finish off by applying wax polish with 0000 steelwool...

Hi Gluesniffer, keen to see the pictures sounds like a great job. Are you going for a Shellac Sanding Sealer & Wax finish - it will look even better!