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I've seen it done before! :ROFLMAO:

No. You haven't read the thread properly. It holds pressure inside the boiler when the isolation valves are shut. So the boiler has no leak. When he opens the isolation valves the pressure has already dropped in the system and so it rushes out of the boiler and the gauge falls. The leak is on...

Closing isolation valves isn't really NON-DIY. Definitely sounds like a leak on the system. Can't range rate them unfortunately :(. Eddy, try using a spanner or something. Once it's moved a tiny bit it'll move the rest of the way pretty easily I expect. If required you can take the black...

Correct.

You need to close the flow AND return (far right and far left) otherwise it will still drop the pressure by going the other way.

Sounds like it's incorrectly installed to me. It should ignore the weather compensation when heating the cylinder, but yours sounds like it is not.

Sounds like the OPSO is clicking off although they usually require a manual reset rather than self resetting.

Yes it does. You have a leak somewhere on the system. Check every radiator valve by actually touching all around it with dry fingers (then rub together to feel for water). It's by far the most common place to leak, usually on the spindle part where it turns or on the pin of a thermostatic valve...

That looks fvcking awful!

My grandads old house built in 1974 had some kind of solvent weld plastic for mains cold in the loft (only up there thankfully) which I replaced when putting in an unvented cylinder. Mainly because I couldn't be bothered finding the correct adapters. Was only feeding the two header tanks and...

I can see the point of it on hot and cold pipes to be fair, the idea is to use as few fittings as possible to avoid such restrictions. Inevitably you need an elbow, socket etc here and there though, it's impossible not to. May mean going up to 28mm in some cases where 22mm copper would suffice...

And how would that help with a leak? It could be on the system (and usually is). Flat expansion of course a possibility but he didn't say how old the boiler is or if that's been done.

You should be qualified to work on it at all. The most a user can do is pump up expansion vessel/reset air bubble on a Megaflo (both amount to the same thing) or drain it/fill it.

Thin copper + bending spring = creases. Without spending on a proper pipe bender you'll struggle to get it perfect.

Those will work fine, just don't look as good.

Radiator definitely (and many more besides that, 24Kw is a lot for heating) but not so much another shower. Definitely wouldn't be able to run them both at once, but then almost all combi boilers are the same.

The tube that goes from the heat exchanger to the flue is obsolete on these. Not on the later ones with a round tube, but the ones with that more "square" shape are. Looks like that could be the reason. £700 discount can be given on these now regardless of whether they're broken or not, only...

£225 is ridiculous. Get another quote. Especially if you can supply the part. Maybe he was looking at list price for the boiler on that quote? In which case it wouldn't be so bad. The eBay part appears to be identical.

Can get Stilsons cheaper than one of those and much more likely to actually work!

Magnabooster needs to be pointing downwards so there's no chance.