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Tried a search but can't seem to find anything specific to my query. I have had an extension built which has yet to be signed off by Building Control. Part of it is a downstairs toilet with basin. There is no openable window. Clearly some sort of vent or extractor will be required but I'm...

Bernard, when are you going to realise that whatever you claim to know about EBUS in general DOES NOT APPLY HERE AS VAILLANT ARE NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE. It does't matter how many times you type it out IT DOESN'T MATTER BECAUSE VAILLANT ARE NOT POLARITY SENSITIVE. Stop going on about it ffs! It...

Whoosh! Over your head it goes! :ROFLMAO:

It doesn't. It's a thermostat which switches a high and low gas rate at the gas valve (not fully modulating).

You could also neglect to mention the fact that it froze and just say it sprung a leak ;).

PCB probably fried now. As mentioned you needed to switch across 1 and 3 with EITHER 240v OR 24v, you've sent 240v up the 24v side with what you've done.

Hot water control is just for pre-heat. There is no way to program it without using Worcester's own controls. The simple solution you seem to be missing is leaving the current timer in-situ and using it to time the pre-heat with the heating set to constant and the Nest interupting this like a...

Pretty sure that's supposed to go UNDER the UFH to stop the heat going into the ground, not above it or as you say the heat won't come through!

Brown Live Blue Neutral Earth to Earth Black to 1 Grey to 3 Done. This is about as simple as an install gets.

Hive is owned by British Gas for a start. And the OP didn't even have a Hive, just a dual channel programmer. It's operation is similar but not the same. I'm sure nearly a year later he has got used to it.

Flow switch (the electrical part) on either how water or pump proving probably faulty. Had it lots. Even though the pin is moving out and appears to press the switch they seem to get "loose" and not actually make the connections.

Hive reciever needs to replace the timer inside the house then. Don't need to touch the boiler. Take it off and see if the backplate is the same, might be a straight swap if you're lucky. Do you have an S-plan or Y-plan system?

Is the existing timer external to the boiler or wired directly into it?

Go for as big as possible on the towel rail, you'll need it heat-wise. Weirdly white ones also give off more heat than chrome (check the ratings).

Does the main heating pipe run along near this proposed wall for the radiator? If not you'll probably struggle to get it to heat properly on a one-pipe system. It needs to be as close to directly above it as possible. Too much horizontal and you'll find it either won't heat or will just get luke...

Disaster waiting to happen? New builds are terrible, don't use them as a benchmark for ANYTHING.

No, you still have a wet connection even if you can't see it. AAV is only for multiple stacks in one property, where one must always be open to air. Since you only have one then it must be open.

Looks like a cheap onme to me! Probably about £30 new.

Immersion heater is just a backup. 99% of people do fine with 3kw. Up to you if the extra reheat time is that big of a deal when you'll only use it a few times ever, if at all.

ACV makes sense if you're space limited because at least it'll recover quickly. You'd still be space limited with a regular unvented tank but with slower recovery time. You don't "need" 2 inputs but it would help efficiency. I'd suggest a "Hot Water priority" setup so that as soon as the...