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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BATHROOM-BASIN-SINK-CHROME-ON-BRASS-METAL-WASTE-35mm-11-4-PIPE-90-BEND-ELBOW-/370949654394?hash=item565e52877a:g:PmEAAOSwYGFUsQac Same thing for £9.75

Not likely.

Why not use it open vented? No reason that you have to use it sealed just because that was it's original intention. It's just very over-engineered for open vent.

Problem with single wrap is that sometimes a single wrap isn't actually enough. Then when you do 2 or more turns it can start to slip within the thread instead of digging in like multi wrap does.

Don't use gas ptfe, it's garbage for this sort of thing. Normal ptfe... 15 turns and do it until it's tight without going overboard.

Easy fix then, lucky you! :)

CO Detector would work for now. And you should have one anyway.

Worcester have no such disclaimer about microbore anyway. All they're bothered about is if it's clean water going round, the rest of the system is almost irrelevant to them for warranty purposes.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-tap-connector-10-x-pack-of-2/64131?kpid=64131

Turn all your radiators apart form these two down to a 1/4 turn open on the lockshield valve. All TRV's on max. Turn the heating on and see what happens. If you still don't get hot at these rad's then you need to go back to 22mm before teeing off.

The saving made by the lower return temp would be easily outweighed by the fact you're heating a radiator unnecessarily. It's just robbing Peter to pay Paul.

It's just a flat expansion vessel, as was already mentioned. Very routine job. If the boiler has been serviced with any kind of regularity it would have been picked up then.

On the F75 kit it has a piggyback connector to go on the pcb end so you can indeed end up with 2 pressure sensors connected. Seems to give a reading somewhere between the 2. So if the right hand one is faulty still the readings will be out. Hence why I said to swap the new one to the right and...

Never seen one like that on the right! But if I was replacing either one I'd do the one on the right then disconnect the one on the left (leave it in to plug the hole). F75 is not low pressure, it's "no flow detected". When the pump starts the pressure needs to increase by at least 0.2bar...

The PRV is NOT "passing", it's doing it's job.

No, it's MUCH better on the coil. Otherwise you'd have cold water at the bottom of the store which can never be heated by anything!

The resistance created by undersized pipework is cumulative, so even if it reduces at the last moment as it connects to the shower it's still less overall resistance by putting it in 22mm rather than 15mm. Whether it will definitely fix your issue is another matter but it certainly can't hurt...

10 years for most/all manufactuers is the minimum. They obviously can do for longer as it keeps making them money on common spares.

The mains cold is back feeding up the hot pipe as they are not equal pressures. Ideally you should have separate hot and cold taps on a bath if the pressures are not equal. A non-return valve fitted on the hot pipe to the bath tap is a cheap fix but they can (and do) fail.

You'd probably have to buy a whole valve to get that specific handle.