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Reciever goes straight on that backplate with no changes. If you want the easy option... Link out the common and demand wires of your thermostat, make safe all the others as well in a terminal block and put the Hive thermostat backplate on top of the hole where the wires are and attach. Wires...

Doesn't sound over the top to me really. You might be able to get it cheaper but then will they do as good a job? (not that his price guarantees he will). Will the cheaper guy suddenly not turn up? Either way you won't save much off that price I'd guess. If you've got someone recommended who...

There's no way that would work on a 1 pipe system unless it was literally in series with the main loop. You must have a 2 pipe.

No way to stop the noise on startup. As mentioned... just set the timer for 7am-11pm or something. The heat loss overnight will be negligible, plenty hot enough for morning.

My triton didn't fail, I just replaced it with one with a diverter so it had both an overhead rainhead and a flexible handset. But the flow rate was a definite improvement over the triton which was less than 2 years old and didn't have a single bit of scale (soft water area). I've kept it as a...

New taps.

Faulty thermostat by the sounds of it. You've done all the right checks.

It will also work better if you put the flow pipe to the top entry of the radiator and return at the bottom.

If it's a standard size mixer bar then you can replace it with almost any other brand. Standard distance is 150mm centre to centre on the pipes. I replaced my old Triton with a Mira and enjoyed a nice flow rate increase (although you will be limited by the sounds of it). You can pick up some...

Yes absolutely fine.

It would actually have a slightly higher output if anything. Brand of radiator makes very little difference in my experience. TRV again everyone will have a different opinion. Don't go for the cheapest of the cheap and you'll not do too badly. Bulldog Terrier ones are a good compromise on...

They are cheap to replace.

They would look terrible! At least choose chome ones... :ROFLMAO...

Motorised zone valve on each circuit (acts a relay at the same time) is the way most would do it.

Any outlet still needs a water feed, no matter what it's heated by (gas or electric) so having electric won't help the poor flow rate.

You must have a serious underlying problem for that many radiators to pinhole. Don't just book a powerflush, ask for a diagnosis of why it's happening. I once had a system with a cold feed and open vent in the wrong place that was pumping over the vent pipe into the header tank any time the...

Bit of an oxymoron :ROFLMAO:.

The boiler does not know whether it's heating radiators or a cylinder, it just provides heat as demanded. The heating and cylinder would need separate motorised valves and thermostats so that it knows when to stop and start heating each one that's all.

10mm pipe can usually be bent quite easily but I'd go for the smaller rad and make up the difference with radiator tail extensions if I were you as bending them outwards that much is going to be hard (5cm per side).

Tony, I have a similar one in my bathroom except mine has eight 1/2" connections (4 horizontal and 4 vertical if you can imagine, 2 at each corner). It came with a screw-in "bolt" with an allen key head which fit through any of these 8 connections and screws internally to the radiator into a (I...