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You can't really block it, just got to replace. But then the idea is if you never use it then it will never start dripping. If you check back it might have stopped. I've had some drip for a while then stop.

I already stated the price in my last post, it wasn't just a guess. £15 is doable. By £18 you have several choices. Who said anything about doing it for a job? You said it was for your own use. I don't skimp on my own house, I do everything as good as it can be within reason. Even if it was...

I'd rather buy a 15mm pressure reducing valve that comes with a gauge, then set it at say 1.5bar and just open until it stops. No chance of overfill and makes it a very easy 1 person job. £15-20 and you're good to go.

Pretty sure it only comes as part of the whole kit.

2 will definitely work regardless of 1.

Tee the cold feed into the open vent pipe (obviously capping the stub of cold feed remaining on the system side). It will stop this problem entirely.

They are spouts for dishwasher/washing machine wastes. They either need a hose connected which is in use or to be capped off, no wonder they're leaking when left open like that! Yellow tap could be for topping up pressure on the boiler.

The side boss is specifically put on a cylinder for a shower draw off. You'd be silly not to use it IMO. No way air is going to get into the pump through that.

If you can turn it by hand without tools then it's probably fine. If you have the actuator off then it will pass down both because there's nothing actually holding it in the position no matter where you place it. The spring holds the valve tightly shut on hot water and the motor keeps it under...

If you have a rattle from the actuator then one of the springs that returns it to hot water has probably snapped off the post.

I have a 2 litre expansion vessel on my cold main, never get even a hint of hammer even with 6 bar standing pressure.

You can also get 90 degree push-fit connectors for MDPE so don't worry about that. It is more flexible than you'd think but only long radius bends.

It might just need a reset because you overheated it by firing with no water in the system. Not sure if you can reset though with a non-working display as the reset is sent through the display board.

Been a while since I did one but pretty sure you can discard it. That kit fits a few different boilers.. Must be that one of them needs it (never come across a use for it myself).

Clean the water in the system. Even if it initially "looks" clean there is likely to be a build up in the valve where the waterways are narrow.

Looks like they're FED by 22mm and outlet is 15mm to me. Might be acceptable if you told them that (certainly better to have a good feed).

I believe the ST799 uses the exact same back plate and wiring so is a 30 second job to swap over.

It can be done with the block in place but access is from the left by taking the case off which requires opening the combustion chamber... not DIY.

Turbomax isn't even a condensing boiler. So shouldn't be too much plume! Vaillant say 2m from an opening opposite the terminal to be safe. It will always produce a tiny amount of C.O. but it's so small you could breathe it all day and be fine.

I did it as a temporary fix on a nursing home late at night once. Went back next day though. Funny enough it was a heat exchanger on a Baxi Megaflo (same heat exchanger as the DuoTec) leaking down the condensate!