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There will be a LOT of water left in. When you refill expect some rusty residue in your hot water for a while too with it being a steel tank. It'll settle to the bottom again eventually.

I think you're silly to replace it, personally. I'd have a cylinder in my house if it was practical, rather than a combi.

My first thought was "blocked plate heat exchanger". If it works fine on heating I'd be doubting a pump fault.

If it's side entry then it probably goes in right near the bottom! So it does need draining. It's also a steel tank, much stronger in the first place.

It's the lid seal that leaks. But they updated the seal from red to black, if it's already got a black seal then don't bother changing it. Likewise with the isolation valves, the plastic bit that you turn used to be red on the old ones which tended to leak when you use them, the black ones are...

You could have multiple faults. If the flue ways of the heat exchanger block up then no amount of setting the gas valve will get around it. If it's cleared out and then the gas valve set correctly it's still possible to fix I'd have thought.

11" if it's in the side then, it's the size of the element not the thermostat.

Probably a 27" immersion if it goes in the top.

I can think of very few situations where 1.6 ohms difference will affect the result during boiler fault finding anyway but if you know it's there it doesn't actually matter! It's a Fluke 77 I think.

Obviously not. Not that I pay a single penny for any of my tools though :ROFLMAO:

Gas valve out of adjustment I'd say, could be faulty but most can be adjusted back. Get someone different, your first guy clearly had no idea what he was doing.

You will NOT get 0.000 by touching the probes together though. There is always SOME resistance. 1.6 ohms on mine, might vary slightly on different models of course but in that ball park. But that doesn't affect your other results.

Yes you can fit Hive to that very easily.

I'd just manually bleed the magnaclean a few times personally.

Give it at least a few days to settle down before assuming the worst. It can take a while to work it's way out.

No, I mean I turned the black part and the whole thing started leaking. Not just the little vent.

I've definitely replaced those before because of leaking.

I would suggest that even though they're "auto" air vents that you don't leave them open permanently on an open system. More likely to leak that way.

Only ones I ever trust are Vaillant Ecotec ones. Anything else I avoid like the plague.

+1 Bet thats it. Pull the knob off and sometimes you can use a thin electrical screwdriver to turn it.