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If it was mine I'd remove brickwork from my side allowing you to see inside their chimney to identify if there is any sort of venting or build up of rubble and go from there.

A picture would help us give advice

Hi all, I'm fitting a new radiator in our upstairs bedroom, the new radiator has no markings for inlet or supply so I assume it doesn't matter which side I plumb the feed and return to? Thanks, Chris

Check your battery hasn't gone flat whilst you've been working in it, having the doors open with interior lights on whilst working can drain a battery surprisingly fast

It's about £8 for a 2m length of 15mm copper pipe so probably not worth investing too much time or effort in finding an alternative source of a small piece, you'd then have a decent bit left over for any other future alterations.

By the letter of the rules if you don't touch the cable between the consumer unit and the first rose/switch (depending on how it's wired) then you can do anything you like after that so if that first cable is in good condition then you can 'rewire' the rest of the circuit from there.

Cut it square with a Multitool then expanding foam a piece of plasterboard in, possibly use a piece of 9.5mm board if the cables stick out a bit then fill/tape the joins. If your having the room plastered then a bit of multi finish.

All circuits are covered by rcd's. No there isn't an easily accessible socket to pick up from whereas the lighting circuit runs directly above the stud wall in question. I plan to put a dymo label in the back box stating the supply is taken off the lighting circuit not that I can forsee a...

No need for an outlet plate, the walls are clad in white upvc panels so I've just made a small hole and used a suitable size grommet to feed the cable into the stud wall where the fcu will be mounted on the other side.

Hi all, We've an electric radiator in our new bathroom, the elements rated at 500w. Am I right in thinking that'll pull less than 3a so I can feed an fcu from the nearby light circuit with 1.5mm t+e? The fcu will be mounted outside the bathroom with the cable coming through the wall so if I...

As I've marked above, if the orange line is the rainwater and the purple the drain can you not dig out and remove the access point, replace with a suitable fitting and add a new access to the right through the wall?

Your other option is to find a company that does moling

If you raise the driveway height to match the raised internal floor I'd imagine you'll be very close to breaching the dpc which is a definite no no. You really want to leave the driveway height as is and have a step or ramp upto your new floor height

Yes, the orange bits of the wago pull up to release the wires, then put all 3 in the earth terminal and tighten the screw.

You can get yourself a 4 way wago connector or bit of chocolate block and use it to replace the 3 way wago connector the Earths are currently connected in. You can then use a new piece of wire from the extra slot on the wago to the terminal on the faceplate.

How deep are the trusses?

132mm would be what I'd go for. Might be worth seeing if you can hire one for a one off, travis perkins do them near me so may be worth a go if you have one local.

No the tripping stopped so I cut back the damaged cable and refitted the switch and now the circuit stays energised

That's the multi tester I have, if I use rcd function connected to a socket on the upstairs circuit which shares the same rcd as the downstairs lights then the rcd trips correctly so I'd say the rcd does work there's something wrong on the lighting circuit causing it not to trip but I'll have to...

So the issues sorted but it's going to lead to more fault finding as it's shown something isn't right. So having narrowed the issue to the downstairs bedroom circuit I then removed the feed out to the second light and the issue remained. I then removed the cable to the light and switch one at a...