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The element being uninsulated from the water.

Electrically un-insulated. :rolleyes:

Dolphin showers used heaters with an uninsulated element and flow switches directly immersed in the water. As do the cheap heated shower head type showers.

Misuse of a circuit like that can cause damage to the fuse holder and fusebox as the fuse will likely be running fairly hot.

The 'coil' is a transformer. The lamp will almost certainly be a 12 Volt reflector type. Such as: You will need to check the rating plate to see what the maximum wattage permitted is, it should also state the lamp voltage.

Are the those installation cables rubber?

Interesting, you can buy a portable air conditioning unit for less than £400. I work a lot with appliances, the older Dyson stuff used to be quite good. Easy and cost effective to repair, the newer stuff is just overpriced bits of flimsy plastic. I'm not a fan... :p

I recently bought a load of Hager gear from them, no problems. They are part of Gil-Lec Ltd.

Carbon brushes can be shaped easily as they are quite soft, I've only ever done that when the correct parts are obsolete. There is clearly a problem with the mounting or mechanism if they are wearing like that. I would use the correct brushes and sort the problem with the arm/brush parts not...

Use insulated and sheathed singles of about the correct size, the grey sheath might look something like lead...

Threaded steel is way cooler than copper. It's heavy gauge is much more nail, screw, and drill resistant too. Good excuse to use the hydraulic bender that's gathering dust in the corner.

Nice, where did you get that backplate? Looks useful.

They are the clear things in the lower part of your photo, the red/black marker inside moves up and down depending on the flow. They usually move about a bit as the water flows, but are stationary when the valve is fully shut. You can also check the valve actuator ring is screwed down properly...

It may take a little while for the temperature to drop especially if the pipes are in a thick floor. Is the flow indicator for that zone showing any flow?

There could be a few reasons, mis-wiring, flat batteries in a battery powered room stat, or zone actuator stuck or not fitted correctly to the UFH manifold. What system do you have?

Please call someone competent to work on electrical systems, the wiring is installed to a very poor standard that does not meet basic electrical standards. Why are the cables entering the nest from the bottom instead of the rear knockouts?

You were very close to serious danger there. Please call an electrician for any future electrical work.

They will be fine, I went to look at a fault on an industrial laundry machine that kept killing a relay every 2 days, turned out the onsite engineer was replacing it with ones with 24V ac coils instead of 240V ac coils. If they can work for a good few hours under extreme abuse like that a few...

Here's a drawing I did a while back which should help explain.

Don't know much about those, except the 2 I've seen were very loud in operation.