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You need to have the wiring tested now, as well as on a routine basis. There appears to be no RCD protection on any circuit except that one feeding the mineral insulated cable (which I hope is an RCBO!) The wiring should be tested/inspected every five years or change of tenant, whichever is...

The tenants would have to be rather bloody stupid to not want the flexes replaced. I have no time for such stupidity so I'd just let them kill themselves. The large damages to vacuum cleaner flex was possibly caused by being mangled by the brushroller.

I've just noticed my kitchen is the same, cooker switch/socket within 5mm from the edge of the hob. It really isn't a problem.

It doesn't look 'added' it's part of a ring circuit with cables in different directions, the back boxes throughout are all fixed with the same nails etc. It looks very much part of the original wiring.

The socket is close to the hob, but not something I'd worry about, it's not over it. I'd rather have the extra socket...

7) Having electronic devices all over the fixed wiring makes electrical testing a PITA. 8) I've seen more exploded electronic switches than mechanical ones. 9) Triac based electronic switches can be damaged when a bulb/lamp fails leaving the output permanently on.

You can replace the back box with a deeper one. Spacer frames, sometimes called biscuit frames are available to go between the wall and the switch, but these often look untidy.

It really bothers me the number of 'professionals' replacing parts without actually diagnosing the fault. I used to work in appliance repair before I was an electrician, I don't recall ever 'part swapping' instead of logically attempting to locate a fault. Of course the valve could have...

In that case when the HW valve opens it will send power to the CH valve live motor terminal (brown) and in turn switch on the heating. It can't be switched off after this as this is after any thermostat (although yours has been bypassed.) It is likely that moving the orange wire to the orange...

The HW valves orange wire is in the terminal marked white. Edit, too slow. White is obviously heating on for a 3 port valve but I can't work out what effect that will have with the various links cut in this unit.

I prefer these crimps:

You would also need to check with the overload manufacturers instructions, many new ones say set the overload to FLC vaule, many older ones say set it to FLC+10%

No because the 24 hour supply powers the controls, electronic thermostats and heater relays.

Agree with Xtal ball, you will want to repair the heater as all new storage heaters now require 2 mains supplies, an economy7 supply and a 24hour supply, to meet the new lot 20 EU rules. This allows more control and heating at all times but means you are also partly heating your house with the...

I usually do the same thing but hang the fan with huge cable ties. Looks a bit bodgey but cuts the noise level a huge amount.

This type? (Wattage may be different)

The fault is most likely the earth wire isn't connected at the other end of the cable. It might be at a nearby socket or a junction box somewhere.

Why not find the fault so you can keep the socket?

Is the back box metal? If it is, how will you earth it before putting the blank plate on?

OH MY GOD! Ignoring the rest of the catastrophe what on earth are all the wire links for?! This has to be one of the poorest attempts at wiring a light fitting I have seen in the 16 years I have worked as an electrician. Call an electrician!