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Is it just me or do the supply cables look rather small?

The 500V will be the maximum voltage that can be used with the isolator. A common rating for MEM isolators. The microwave should have a rating plate, the number of wires in the cable should be a give away to the voltage too.

You can fit quite a lot of detail on printed labels, further information can be added on a separate label.

You can buy 3 pole fan isolator pull switches, these have a mechanical indicator in case there is no neutral.

I knew what I meant :LOL:

I still want to see the hall light wiring, with that switch configuration I would expect to find the blue wire from the non working switch at the ceiling light not connected to anything, and the live to the outside light connected in with the yellow feeding hall light.

Probably, what is the wiring like in the hall light?

There are some available that fit inside a 1 gang back box, I have something similar powering a wall mounted Honeywell Evohome controller.

You have checked power is getting to the board?

Yes, especially if the brass bit doesn't turn easily, that model is not too expensive.

What do you think the wires might be for?

It looks like you have a Dryaton valve, these have a small indicator which shows roughly what position the valve is in, it should be in the W position the same as the one in the photo: Another test you can do here is to unplug the white 5 pin connector that feeds the valve that is currently...

You need to diagnose the problem before replacing parts as that will soon get very expensive. You say you have a 2 channel programmer where CH is left on so Evohome will work. In that case I would start by switching CH off on the programmer and just run the HW. If the radiators still heat up...

Yes, 2 coil heating elements. The triangle part of the heater unit contains a float switch which detects the water flow and switches on a contactor to power the heaters. The float switch is also live and completely bare in the water. The danger adds to the fun!

There are quite a few still in use in Devon, the earliest ones had a Crabtree VOELCB inside used as a switch which was operated by 2 strings through 2 sides of the case.

Surely there are 3 windings, connected to 6 of the wires H1 H2 H3 W1 W2 W3. No idea what the blue and brown 5v wires are for, speed sense perhaps?

I have worked on enough Dolphin showers now to know that is true, that's why the internal pipework is so long, and the inlet and outlet connectors are earthed metal. Rather less safe versions are available:

Yes one of the elements can be seen through the clear plastic below the metal clip.

What's what?

If you look carefully at the bottom of the plastic heater unit you can just make out the bare spiral heater element wire is directly in the water it is heating, as are the flow switch contacts that are at the top of the heater unit.