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No worries.... I have submitted my gas safe register details and am just awaiting approval to enter the CC.... I'll hold back any other discussion on this kind of topic... Martin

By the way, i'm new here so I apologize if that kind of question shouldn't be answered in this forum.... Martin

Flue fault in all likely-hood..... Sounds like the inner flue might be damaged in some way causing vitiated are to enter the combustion chamber via the outer flue.... Also possibly a fan fault..... In either situation an RGI is required to check and repair.... If you are one, I apologize...

If you don't have TRV's it really shouldn't make much difference what side is the lockshield as long as the system is balanced properly (not to the extent that you can't get any heat at all anyway)... Sounds more like a problem with the way it's piped..... When adding rads it's always best to...

PS; pumping over is basically where water is expelled from the heating circuit back into the header tank, via the open vent.... You'll know if this is happening by having a look in the header tank... If the water is hot/warm... this suggests it's pumping over.... Martin

Sounds like the system may be pumping over..... The pump may be sluggish or set incorrectly and not allowing the boiler to get rid of the heat quickly enough.... Your appliance should be able to work on the full 1-6 scale without pumping over..... This info is very general however, and I...

Is the boiler an Ideal Isar??? If so, sounds like the divertor valve is passing to the CH.... This boiler comes with a pre-heat, and if the div/valve passes it will continue to fire in DHW to try and satisfy the HW pre-heat, giving the impression that there is a demand for CH when clearly...

A couple of re-fill and empties should do.... just basically do your best to make sure the cleanser has been completely drained..... add inhibitor on last re-fill.... Martin

Would need more info I'm afraid.... combi? gravity h/w? y-plan? s-plan?.... back boiler? make? model??? Any info you can provide on the system it's self really??? Thanks martin

I'ts easy enough to take out and re-fit, so feel free to give it a blast.... let me know how you get on.... martin

It's most likely the float inside the valve is stuck.... Maybe worth a go to take it out and try cleaning, but in my view it's prob best to replace it... That's what I would do anyway.... To do so, simply drain the heating circuit.... The auto-air vent unscrews from the pump body...

A B/G powerflush is guaranteed for the full life of the system, (provided you stay on the homecare shockingly enough and as long as you own the house.... ie; if you sell the house, they won't guarantee it for a new owner).... Or at least it was when I worked for them..... However, without...

PS: To be honest, I'd probably just replace the TRV with a mechanical valve anyway..... That's just my thoughts :) Martin

Hi, yes, removing the TRV head will keep the rad open indefinitely, as long as the lockshield on the other side is open.... The noise isn't necessarily being caused by this tho, so use caution....... depending on your system it could be any number of things... Worth a go tho.... Martin

Are ou sure the Auto-air vent is open....??? There will prob be a plastic screw on top of the valve which can be opened to bleed it.... I assume the fault is air in the pump??? Martin

Hi, I'm not a big far of Ariston boilers, but each to their own.... Personally I believe you will get a better boiler for less money... Perhaps a Baxi 105e.... This is not an HE boiler but I have always found it to be a good unit.... Though i'm sure others may dis-agree based on their own...

To do this on a back boiler for example, the stat phile is removed from it's pocket and heating and hot water left on..... In effect the system begins to boil because essentially the stat senses no temp increace, thus pushing any trapped air out of the open vent..... Only recomend this for...

It's certainly a strange one..... In theory there is no reason why this should be specific to H/W, other than the fact that the boiler burns at maximum output on H/W op's, but generally doesn't on C/H...... Could be a fault with the Printed Circuit Board.... Difficult to prove the fault in this...

A 3 way valve is a component used to give control of C/H and H/W independently of each other (makes the system more efficient)..... Doesn't seem likely to me that this is the problem though.... Has the system been drained down recently??/ Martin

the system probably has a combined open vent and cold feed.... this would give the appearance that there is no open vent... this is usually done to avoid needing to clear a blockage in the cold feed..... The setup should be Boiler, open vent, pump.... Or BOP for an easy way to remember it...