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As a top rail for box skirting, there's a 44x21 sat on the joists for the skirting btm? I was going to set the top rail, then push some plasterboard adhesive down behind ir. I'd gun some mastic grout down behind the top rail but it stinks so much, I don't know that the smell would go away...

1900x1700 area. Probably a wet room with adjacent privy before wall came down to accommodate bath (which was below central heating boiler..). Refit inc. getting it back to regs. Also, washing machine now downstairs in bathroom. Screed highest is where the separating wall was. Does...

I put foam cavity closers in the reveal before the render/skim. Fixed the closers with a bit of expanding foam all the way up each side, but not an excessive amount. It's the reveal skim that's showing spots of mould all the way up each side of the door. A bedroom. Maybe I need to leave the...

Moisture is getting across the void to the inner leaf, and the emulsioned skim is moulding slightly adjacent the door frame so I need some sort of vertical make-up trim externally to cover the door frame/add-on join? Is it better to recess the external render up the side of the door frame a...

Ply feet were 120x100, so a small gravity fitted/glued CLS block could go on each foot adjacent to CLS joists. Screws went into all CLS blocks only once glue was set. Interim CLS blocks added.

What about the sheds? Tnx, Dain

Skirting to sit on ply boards, then insulation/underlay, then click vinyl, then trim? Or vinyl, then skirting - no trim? How much insulation beneath the click vinyl? I really want a minimum, I'd like minimal 'give' when walked across or under furniture? Thank you D

The 63mm is an existing frame, I might just add a brother to get the width. And stick with 89mm landings after that. I got some Goldscrew Plus 5x60mm, partial thread. But they're cutters, which I didn't start out with. Are they Ok for fixing the 18mm ply down?

There are no tongues. Or grooves. Any tips on edge distance for (5x60) screws in 18mm ply? (can I butt 2 sheets of 18mm together on a 38x63 CLS laid flat/is 63mm wide enough) Tnx,

All joints/edges are fully supported. I was just going to fire in loads of screws, plus a few extra supporting noggins between the outer CLS and the next one in.

What about where you don't glue? 0.5mm gap?

Should I put in a minimal expansion gap between boards when laying them, if so, approx how much? I'm putting click vinyl down.

1st lot were stored against a wall in the hallway. I'll take the vernier gauge when I pop over to B&Q for more, just in case.

Not t&g.

I picked up some 18mm ply from B&Q earier this year for a flooring job but need a few sheets more. Is there likely to be much variation in thickness between the 1st lot and the next few sheets? Do they dry out further in the home after coming off the shelf in the sheds? Ply being fixed on CLS...

It isn't chipboard, but you're right, it would be a waste to change track. In half the room there just isn't the clearance to Cellotex /screed. On tops of CLS, knots and areas adjacent planed where slightly proud.. Additional legs fixed once CLS level (Gorilla glued, and quick grip clamped to...

if I backtracked and went for a screed I think I would need about 70mm - 110mm depth. The conc. substrate has 2 coats of Sikha rapid which didn't have sand scattered over the top coat while still tacky? Mid point/average of about 90mm. App. how much would a 90mmx20m sq screed cost?

Each pack with one pan head masonry 60mm x 6 into a 45mm 7 brown wall plug. Vacuum cleaner to remove that little pile of spoil the drill deposits under the nembrane! Not easy work, but gets faster after the corners are set.

Maybe I'll glue some short support brothers adjacent the CLS frames. Screwing the brothers could lift the frames if the screws weren't perpendicular. Maybe just a gravity fit, with glue.

Long bubble. Unfixed brother on floor (in a corner in this case)