Search results

If that was my project, I'd use Hammer-in Fixings to affix batons to the plasterboard facing. The hammer-ins need to be long enough to go into the brickwork to a depth of at least 45mm to give a good weight bearing strength.

OR, have a new rad bent to match the curve of the window wall. Then form a curved window board to match. https://angellwelding.co.uk/bay-window-radiators/

@318Mike If you find yourself in that situation again, invest in some captive screwdrivers that hold the screw to the driving end...

A quick method for flat pack assembly, but one I try to avoid as the alloy cam part can all too easily break when trying to tighten sufficiently.

Tiling battens are for support and fixing to, not for gap filling. If that was my roof, I would not be happy until the roof was finished to a fully acceptable weatherproof standard. What is the flat roof covering material? If resin bonded glass fibre, the roofer can easily bring another length...

How long a run do you want? A local wood machinist would probably run you out a few lengths (y)

There IS no substitute for doing the job properly (y)

I would use a medium to fine steel wool to clean and also provide a good key for your repaint. After providing an excellent key I would hoover all over with an upholstery brush to ensure no fine steel remains. My time saving method is both quick and clean to enable repainting straight away(y)

Have you considered a pivot hinge top and bottom?

£300 for me but only £100 for Mrs Scally .. better that a kick in the teeth though(y)

If the height of those bricks was lower, then it would not present a problem. However, with the minimal space you have, I can see no way of making a decent floor-to-floor continuous flow without removing the bricks and then cutting them. OR leaving them out and then securely packing up to allow...

Packings can be of any material, but waterproof plastic would be my choice. Here's the sort I'm referring to:- https://www.toolstation.com/plastic-packers/p46640

I suggest level the new window board with necessary packing and then when happy fill gaps with a reputable filler

It will depend on how accurate you mark out and how steady your saw hand is.

In theory it doesn't matter, because on an A/C supply, the polarity of the incomer is changing around 50 times every second; hence the name, alternating current supply(y) If that were my little power supply, I'd fit a double pole switch as the isolator.

From the photos at the beginning of this topic, both heaters are rated at 3Kw @ 240v.

The gas valve could be okay, but the thermocouple voltage now insufficient to hold the valve open.

Treat the surface with Liquid Sandpaper to save dismantling it (y)

65 yrs ago I was wiping lead joints with tallow as an air excluder (flux) and also to enable a good flow of the plumber's metal (y) I also used it for leaded lattice window work.