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The HW supply is isolated from the boiler (primary circuit) via a heat exchanger and as such the pressures will differ. IMO it was just a coincidence that the push-fit fitting (spit!) decided to let go. Give me capillary or compression any time(y)

Ah-ha! One of the CU's RCD's is rated at 100ma, so that one is probably not quite as sensitive as the main one. The problem most probably lies within the section served by that 63a 100ma RCD(y)

What is puzzling me the main breaker is 100ma, but the CU with 2 far more sensitive RCD's are not tripping. Something not right there.

I know because overhead supplies used to be 'earthed' via a voltage sensitive tripping device. That more modern version main trip is obviously a replacement relying on current leakage.

Before this topic progresses any further, do you have an overhead mains supply feeding into your house?

Can you work from the floor above and access the ceiling void?

Reading this makes me appreciate the remote fuel filler unlocking lever alongside my driver's seat

Strip the lot down and after a thorough clean, rewasher that float valve and then S&F a new overflow pipe (22mm) to ensure a good exit route for the next overflow should one occur. Your local plumber/builders merchant will stock washers for that float valve

That ball/float valve probably needs new washer and then the water level lowering a couple of inches. To do that the arm needs carefully bending

My wife's Suzuki has been running on 0W 20 oil from new and the car is now 10yrs old. I've never had any bother buying a 5L can and the advantage is obvious during very cold weather and the eager cranking speed ensures the engine fires first turn of the key. The car's manual did mention 5W 30...

For best results, Artex Sealer should be used and allowed time to fully dry out before skimming. The new plaster softened the Artex coating and then as both dried out at different rates, the cracking occured.

IMO and along with others, nothing much seems to be amiss. Some of the reinforcing does look to be from offcuts, but with nothing bowing or splitting, it seems to be sound enough. If you are worried to the point you might not buy, why not ask someone from K2 Surveyors for their professional...

I suggest you obtain a 'transformer' dedicated to LED lighting and also matches the load of your LED strip(s).

That was an excellent reply (y)

To this old chap, the roof covering reminds me of Nuralte. That was 'welded' together with a bituminous block and flame, so I would expect any sort of hot bitumen would do the job of leak fixing.

£475 for me and £1k on the nose for Mrs Scally

IMO all valley gutters are problematic unless properly monitored and fully maintained.

Leyland Trade sell their Hard-Wearing Emulsion in Magnolia as well as white. I use/specify it in all of my rentals. https://leylandtrade.com/products/walls-and-ceilings/Hardwearing-Matt