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You don’t want 70c water flowing around your CH even for short periods so IMO sticking with an S or Y plan with 55c flow temp for both HW and CH would be a better situation than what you are proposing.

With an S plan system you will have the pump in a short (3min) overrun when both motorised valves have closed, the ABV then opens to allow water to flow hence saving the pump. With PDHW the CH motorised valve will be NO so no need for an ABV if you have a radiator always open.

What about when the CH motorised valve closes? You will need the ABV then unless you have a PDHW setup.

Heat pumps aren’t about saving money so don’t think about ROI, after all who thinks about ROI when buying a car! If you want to do something positive for the environment, however tiny that this, then heat pumps are the best way of heating a property. What we need is for the ridiculous price of...

Unless switching the live has blown the PCB in the boiler.

Have you tried changing the batteries?

Is the flue close to an air brick of fan vent?

Boiler installers tend to do whatever is quickest and easiest for them, was this a Boxt or Heatable install? It looks poor and I wouldn’t be happy either but you will find that they have covered themselves in the t&c’s so as long as it meets installation and safety standards then it’s down to...

There are a lot of things that Drayton claim to be working on but nothing has changed since I installed Wiser 2 years ago.

I get the same issue with pipe banging when the motorised valve closes, I’ve never been able to fix it so now I just manually latch it open once the HW cylinder is up to temp. I keep neaning to change to a PDHW system but haven’t got around to it.

Generally, but not always, the TRV is on the flow and the lockshield is on the return.

Do you have TRV’s on all the other radiators? If so then once they all get to temperature and close the rad in question will get more flow and should heat up more.

A hot input with a lukewarm output suggests the radiator is working.

Its an S plan system so the boiler should be heating the hot water. I wonder if the immersion has been permanently connected to mains via the switch in photo 3.

Turn down the hot radiators lockshields slightly.

the radiator should have been installed level so it doesn't matter which side the bleed valve is.

Turn down the radiators that are hottest and then see if the cold radiators start to heat up.

Today’s smart thermostats need a different way of thinking. In effect the heating is never off, you have a setback temp and a schedule for when you want the house warmer. For example if you normally want the temp to be 21c then the setback temp should be around 18c to enable the heating to reach...

This is a useful resource for converted radiator outputs based on different delta t. https://www.radiatorsdirect.co.uk/delta-t-conversion#:~:text=If

Is the system on a single pump? Does the UFH come on when the HWC calls for heat? Are you using Vaillant or 3rd party controls? How is the system connected electrically?