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So you have a Tado "smart" heating system, are all the TRV's Tado as well? If they are then any Tado TRV should be able to turn on the boiler but if the 2 TRV's upsatairs are normal TRV's then they wont turn the boiler on.

What make of smart TRV are they?

Another thought…… don’t install an S plan, have a PDHW system with a diverter valve.

As said above a 30kw system boiler is way over sized for the majority of homes. What is the heat loss of the property, that is what determines the size of boiler. As also already said if you go with Vaillant or Worcester then use their controls. You can use standard TRV’s or so called smart...

I suspect someone has used the CPC as a switched live that was connected to the NO connection but check where the CPC goes to before reconnecting it. If my suspicion is correct you could get the boiler to fire by adding a link between COM and NO so at least you will have heating but without...

It’s likely to be either the gauge, the PRV or maybe both that is faulty but a competent gas safe engineer will easily fix it.

Is there a reason why when your dad replaced the 15mm plastic with copper that he didn’t just use 22mm copper which presumably would have fixed the issue?

The Wiser system, gen2 version, can also use other Wiser “smart” devices to detect presence and door/window opening, which could be used to switch the heating on or off. The gen2 hub is more of a “smart” hub rather than just a heating hub like the first gen.

These types of tap are a pain in the a***, IME they always leak after just a few months of use. You will need to order the specific cartridge for the tap and whilst your at it order both for hot and cold.

Oops, updated original post

Yes, the boiler will short cycle which is not ideal for efficiency.

I have 11 radiators and two towel rails, my boiler only goes down to 7kW so I have to have a minimum of five radiators open plus two towel rails (always open).

It depends on the outputs of the non “smart” TRV radiators. I would be surprised if your two towel rails and one radiator added up to your boilers minimum output. Not impossible though if your boiler had a very very low minimum output.

The heat switch will not work without a room thermostat, you will be wasting your money. The Wiser system can be programmed however you want so if you don’t want heating on until 18:00 then set the heating to a suitable temperature at 18:00. It is pretty flexible once you understand the concept...

From looking at the technical documentation the 637 minimum output is 7.1kW. You need to work out what the individual radiators outputs are so that you can judge how many need to be open in order for the boiler not to short cycle.

The heat switch is for electric heaters and only works with a room thermostat.

You could use the wiser plug as you said but you won’t be getting the best out of the system. Wiser expects to have control of the heating throughout the house so that it can learn how the house heats and cools. This info is fed into the hubs algorithm so that Wiser knows when to turn the boiler...

Just forget about the smart label, today’s heating controls are merely a better way of controlling the comfort of your home. Some are better at it than others.

When you connect the Wiser you will need to loop the old thermostat at the wiring centre otherwise the heating will never turn on. To get both heating zones to operate as one just rewire the wiring centre so that the orange from zone one valve is connected to the brown of zone two valve.

There is a v2 Wiser hubr now that might be worth a look. I use the new v2 hubr without IOS issues but having said that I had no issues before when on the v1 hubr.