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I'm having trouble locating the filling loop on my system. There is no braided pipe with taps to be found anywhere! Here's a pic of my boiler: http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x228/Dr_Doolittle/DSC00454.jpg Now, i traced all the pipes and this is what i found: (excuse the rough drawing...

thanks for your help. I found a supplier in Ireland who sell the exact rads i linked to above. I think I'll go for a single one 690mm in height - that will mean the pipes should ok where they are. Now to find that filling loop! I had another look today - no sign of it :? I'll have...

i found this rad online: (4th one down) http://www.inspiredheating.co.uk/acatalog/MYSON_PREMIER_HE_DPX_530mm_HIGH_RADIATOR.html It's roughly the same size as the existing one, but it's a double with single convector. I presume it would be easy enough to swop this for the original, and...

thanks for the prompt reply - i couldn't find the filling loop last time i looked - is it always beside/behind the boiler?

The radiator in my bathroom is quite small, and i'd like to change it for a double rad. First of all, do rads come in standard sizes? The existing one is 745mm wide and 525mm high. Any similar sized rads i've seen are either 600mm or 800mm wide. The reason i need it the same size is because...

oops yea other way around....

Yes, Blue is neutral. If you apply 230v to black the valve should close, and if you apply 230v to brown the valve should open.

I'll hazard a guess that the MCB has not tripped.....

Yea i though about that but there's alot of cables behind the back board, including the main neutral and earth cables. so i don't want to risk cutting them by mistake.

Thanks for that. Replacing the cables to the first connection point is not possible. all the cables are fed in from behind the board as you can see, so to access these cables the supply to the cut-out would need to be disconnected and the whole back board removed. :shock: Anyway i had a good...

Please see below for pics of my existing CU. I want to change this for a new split load CU. Just a few questions about conforming to regs etc: As you can see the main switch fuse is seperate to the existing CU. I intend to keep this in place - is there any requirement for a switch...

An RCD will usually protect all the circuits except the lighting circuits, so by turning of the RCD, you will loose power to all sockets etc. In addition to the RCD each circuit is protected with an MCB. Typically, there is an MCB for the upstairs sockets, one for the downstairs sockets, one for...

I doubt very much that the whole house is wired from a single MCB. Check if it's an MCB or the RCD that has tripped (Do you know the difference? it might be explained in the wiki somewhere). If it's the RCD that tripped, one of the appliances is likely to be faulty.

What was the reception like? A bit fuzzy i'd say..... :lol:

The ring must start and finish in the consumer unit. Otherwise you effectively have a 5mmSq cable connected to a 2.5mmSq cable going back to an mcb.

Thanks for the quick replies. There's no rcd protection, and i'm not sure about the bonding. I was going to replace the fuseboard with a new CU soon, but i dont think a full re-wire is really possible at this stage. Anyway i'm going off topic a bit here - i'll consider my options regarding...

Its an old installation (maybe 30 years) so no CPC to be found anywhere on the lighting circuit at all.

so it would be considered bad practice, but not against regs? Surely its better than no earth?

Simple question i hope: Is it ok to loop the earth from an nearby socket circuit to earth a metal lightswitch and back box?

Thanks for your help. The shed is very close to the house, so the cable run is only 15m. I've identified a suitable socket to take a spur from, so it should be a straight-forward job