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Garden tree loppers using chain saws, will cut off branches and then the trunk in pieces- as far as I can see anyway. Think that is the safe way. But if you debranch a bit, keeping the balance of the tree and tie a long rope a fair bit above where the cut will be in order to break off the top...

Can I ask- are you intending to cut the whole 10 foot at one go, or bit at a time? Consider the weight of the top which will violently shake the tree- so if you're still up there ****. The direction to drop the top can be set fairly well- there's a method if you want it.--(I am no expert though)

I would think it best to try to fill to the bottom of the bevel- it's the only way you are going to obtain a 'straight line' grout surface. Also there seems little point in having a bevel if you fill it in :roll:

Any advice or views on the following is appreciated. Use= holding hardware items more neatly and compact. Ive started making a cheap rack stand, fashioned on the old 19inch rack system sort of. Its just 4 chipboard shelves, 15 inch wide, together with 4 corner laths of 2 1/4 by 1 inch...

I think you are taking a risk of breaking the tiles on either drilling, if you need to do this, or on screwing them to the wall very hard. Think if a tile is not quite bedded right, you would be trying to bend it like beck'm' If you mark a guide sheet where to cut- wouldn't the supplier cut...

He's fed up with greenhouse gassing it :)

Maybe thinners would do, on a cloth, but this could leave a white deposite- which may or may not scrub off with hot water! Just a guess really.

Thanks masona- new aluminium ladder prompt duly noted. The end of life of my favourite old wooden job is certainly near- but I'm not sure if I'll get there first! I have always found it an easy ladder to use- lightweight, versatile and has served me well on all diy work. I admitt to using it...

Crumbs, you've done me no good! I've just tripped over my ego :(

I don't know anything about Sat-nav boxes, but I would have thought it better put on the ignition first position- as the radio. Least you would be sure it was off when not in use. I agree with hard wiring too- good idea. Or do I need to navigate some logic :?:

Sorry- maybe only concerns wooden ladders. I meant- Tie the 3 crossover rungs with the ladder laid flat and extended. If you imagine, during walking it up on your own, it could come apart when only half way up on an angle- as you tend to jerk a bit. Wooden ladders usually only have two small...

Drain the tank?- tried putting a cork in the bottom outlet ?

Good advice there, can I add as you've reminded me- the 'heel' spacer is under the hinge which takes all the weight of glass, and the 'toe' is at the top of vertical upright oposite- both 2 or 3 inches in from the corners, allow the glass a little room to move- 4mm- when fitting other spacers...

I is probably wise to tie the centre crossover also to prevent the ladder dividing when \\\'walking\\\' it up.

Our house was build in 1934, is solid brick, has no ties and no stretchers and no cavity, ie all bricks, inside and out go straight across (the 9 inch faces showing). The bricks are a full 4.25 inch + and as hard as glass (outside). The building and plastering was done by master builders who...

Well I covered the back of my shed with just felt by using crossed laths of wood about 18 inch squares to hold it in place- although only an 8 by 6 foot surface-many years ago and never had any problem. You can use an adhesive too if you're keen enough. :roll:

Maybe Im back to front- but when I did mine with 100mm skirting, I worked out the difference of the front and back half circle lengths to give me an idea of the amount of material to remove and divided this by the number of cuts I was going to make. Then I cut the FRONT neatly and was most...

My thoughts on the subject are- it's maybe better to buy one as there's a safety factor involved. And if you do purchase- get a good one as they can be troublesome with a remote control. (specially near an airport or suchlike).

Set em up 'reaching for the sky' If they went into ground, they would be about 3 inch plus deep- you must not let air reach the skin at any time when growing- poisonous green skin!

If the boards are in fair condition- don't bother. I had to take mine up due to rot problem. If you lay insulation as you say- you must not lay in positions-hot pipes- near airbricks- and places of low air circulation (alcoves). That's how I read it. Further- I would use wire netting for...