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Paid gross, and let him/her deal with tax etc?

If you used a mate to help on a job, how would you reflect this in your accounts - ie his "wage"?

As above - your local locksmith should be able to advise on suitable replacements, plus you'll pay over the odds for cylinders from the sheds.

If it's a multipoint lock - don't take it apart or you'll be searching for bits when they go "ping". Take the mechanism out of the door and oil the rear sliding mechanism, and oil the hooks/bolts/mushrooms etc. working the oil in by using a handle to move the mechanism up/down. If the...

Wallrock ?

Forgot to say, if you can get your drill chuck near the broken bit, tighten the chuck around it and stick the drill in reverse.

Timber "dowel" glued into the hole will finish the job. I keep a piece of pine in the van, and chisel off a section - shaping with the chisel to fit the hole. hammering this into the hole is usually sufficient, but a bit of glue wouldn't do any harm.

Also try drilling a few holes around the broken bit - this should loosen the broken bit sufficient to remove it with pliers.

Id try to get the lock out first, and ensure your measurements are correct - try not to leave any (or at most a few mm's) of the cylinder proud of the handles, as this will minimise the possibility of a brute force attack. Good luck.

You could always drill a series of small holes into the screw head to form a slot, then use a slotted screwdriver - Had to do this on numerous occasions when a fitter has been a little too keen on showing his strength!

Yes it's perfectly legal to pick your own locks, but I'd also advise going down the locksmith route and have them open the doors and supply a pair of new cylinders keyed-alike. Most locksmiths will have the doors open before you could google bumping and watch a few videos. Nothing wrong with...

The new key being sticky is usual until the sharp edges have rounded slightly. If the key wasn't connecting with the cam, it wouldn't be locking/unlocking the door. I fit both high-end and budget cylinders, and to be honest a range called ASEC are very good value for money. No need to pay...

Could be a faulty MPT, but more likely to be a faulty euro cylinder. Take the cylinder out (many threads on this procedure), and extract the key. The cam (black middle bit) should be at the 5 or 7 o'clock position - with the thinnest part of the cylinder pointing downwards. If not, the cam...

I'd be expecting a room for that price! Is it 10mm high (bulging), if so is the plasterer proposing to bring the rest of the wall out 10mm or knock the existing plaster back? What about skirting/architrave on the wall - being removed?

He can't if the door wont open !. You're on the right lines though, I would hazard a guess that the retaining screw has come loose and is snagging the frame when the door is opened. There's a fair bit of flexing in these doors, so you may be able to prise the door past the screw. When you...

Replace the latch with a roller version - simples!!!!

Also consider glueing/screwing additional timber to the gate (closing edge) to enable a mortice lock to be fitted. I also have a Yale latch fitted to my gate and never had a problem with it.

Yep - Electrics forum would be best. Even if you're not putting in the electrics straight away, it would be wise to lay some conduit/sleeving to the shed and feed a "pull through" wire or rope into it for later. Best of luck and let us know how you get on.

I'm in the process of laying a slab for a new shed. Like yours it will be concrete, but I'm also going to raise the shed off the concrete using either timber or paving slabs to aid circulation and keep the shed timbers dry. The gap between the shed and base will be covered with fine mesh to...

Can't go wrong with a couple of coats of Sadolin Classic. I'd also put a couple of extra coats of preservative on - to be safe.