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Post a photo - it may help jog peoples memory.

If it's not been opened for a while, it's a fair bet the bolt has seized or the door timber has moved causing the bolt to tension against the keep. try pushing or pulling the door whilst turning the key, and also whilst attempting to prise it back - if this is possible. Can you remove the...

Plane and sandpaper will take too long, and the MDF will soon blunt the plane blade. Best bet is to use a router with an appropriate bit to roundover the end - hire one if you're not going to get the use out of it, or buy a cheapo one from the sheds.

Sandtex exterior eggshell as an alternative: http://www.sandtextrade.co.uk/Products/Documents/SandtexTradeEggshellX-tra.pdf

There's also different drill points depending on make of lock. Without knowing the make and drill point, you could end up with your door looking like swiss cheese. Also, the youtube example shows drilling into the lever pack. If the lock is reversed (ie handed different), then you'd need to...

http://www.konig-uk.co.uk/

A picture always helps.

Konig do a range of UPVC repair products. I did a course with them a few years ago - real eye opener on what can be repaired.

Unlikely you'll be able to replace the barrel. best bet is to get a locksmith in to pick the lock open (shouldn't present any problems), and they can then advise on a suitable replacement.

As above, timber every time. The majority of fillers (inc 2 part), once stained - look like stained filler and will stand out against the nicely stained timber with its grain. If the frame is to be painted - then you may get away with filler. The Yale lock you mention is a 68mm case. It'll...

If the locks are working, then you only need new keys cutting for them. Best to get a locksmith in who'll be able to source the keys. The lock looks similar to the following: http://www.dgsupplyline.co.uk/results.php?category_id=3&sub_category_id=7&range_id=411#

The section that you mention is screwed to the door. Simply unscrew, and this will enable you to access the euro cylinder retaining screw. Any particular reason you're going for mul-t-locks? Expensive replacements, when the majority of low-lifes will just jemmy the door open and ignore the...

It's not the strike plates that are out of adjustment, and no adjustment is needed. If you are struggling to get the key into the keyway, and need to "wiggle" it before it will turn, then it's either a worn key, badly cut key, or sticking pins. As mentioned above, try a light oil (not graphite...

Thanks for the replies. I like the idea of a threaded bar, but regarding drilling the posts - are they reinforced within?

I was chatting to a customer today, who mentioned she'd been having problems with youngsters removing panels from her fencing, and throwing them into a gulley. The police aren't interested, and she has to rely on neighbours to replace them. The rear of the property faces onto a public...

Am I correct in thinking the best way to secure concrete fence panels (horizontal slats), is to wedge them from above with a timber wedge in-between post and panel. Any other suggestions????

What type of lock is it ? If its a BS rated lock, then it's likely the curtain will have failed, and isn't engaging the bolt to withdraw it. If you can see the bolt, you could try withdrawing it with a screwdriver whilst turning the key to open the lock. Is your key intact - no broken bits?

It's well out of position then - should be at 5 or 7 o'clock, depending on orientation of the cylinder. I've encountered this on most brands, so it's not unique to cheapo's. The most common cause is trying the open the cylinder whilst a key is in the other side.

Yes it's a common problem, but its a new cylinder I'm afraid. The cam on the cylinder has moved out of position - it can be repaired, but more cost effective to replace it.

Try taking some pressure off the bolt, by pushing/pulling the frame, whilst turning the key. Could just be a tight fit. Otherwise, you'll have to manually retract the bolt by levering it back through a gap in the frame or a drilled hole in the frame.