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I think the next thing you could do with doing is trying to get a picture of the neighbours incomming supply. It would be a little strange for that SWA to feed them - I should imagine that is a 1930s property as well? But I suppose their could have been an issue with the supply cable at some...

Is there any other property nearby that could have had its own electricity service added at a laster late (90s possibly) such as: Masonette with separate flat upstairs Granny annex with separate elec board supply Part of garden sold off to build another property You've got the original...

I thought it was the answer that was blowin' in the wind, not bits of data cable sheath!

While generally I agree, I suspect that there might not be plug top fuses as these might be "wall-wart" style PSUs, I'd not be concerned if, as with the OP this is a 32A shower circuit, because thats no different to if they were plugged into a socket on the ring. However if it was say a 50A...

You should re-terminate the earths, They are sleeved two to a sleeved and in a wago thats designed to accept two conductors, they are not intended to have multiple conductors per opening, either re-sleeved all four separaly and get a wago thats design for 5. Or just take wago off and put...

1)Put all your lights back on the ceiling, connect the cables as per the colour of their inner insulation, red to live, black to neutral, all earths to earth. 2)At the switch get some connector block and put all four cables in one block, now switch on the power, do all the lights come on? 3)If...

How did you identify it as being a live? Do you mean it was tagged red already (which would be to identify it as a live) or you have just tagged it red in identifying which conductor runs where using the rolls of tape you have (which potentially could be a source of confusion) What are the...

I'm afraid I cannot make any sense of your diagram, I think you'd be better off posting pictures of what you have at each light and switch position, also do you own a multimeter?

Also known as (formally) cord end terminals, but no one calls them that on site. You'll also need the correct tool to put them on, Knipex make one with a hole that closes up like a camera apperature (Knipex 97 53 04) thats quite expensive, naturally the usual places are flooded with much cheaper...

If your fuseboard is of a similar vintage to that installation there, then no sockets can be added until RCD protection is added. And as others have said, if you want to alter that, you will need someone with the equipment to work with steel conduit

While a sensible precution, you need to know what sometimes you might get a false possitive - or rather its showing an issue, but its not the one you are worrying about. In a large installation neutral and earth can sit a few volts apart due to volt drop of the later, you can have a sitiation...

My understanding is, that even though the air does get warmed moderatly, the heating is not the primary mode of drying. As far as I know these things run a refrigeration unit with the hot and cold sides two separate compartments, air is passed over the hot side, warming it slightly and...

I've always thought heat pump driers were somewhat incorrectly named, it tends to suggest that they dry in the same way as a resistive drier, with a stream of heated air that passes over the clothes and drives out the moisture, just that its been heated with a heatpump rather than an element...

Nice bit of red PVC tape... I seem to remember that the one of these boards that I fitted in my parents house about 12 years ago has had the same thing happen with the door clip, flismy as anything. There is a lot of discussion around here (or was in 2015) about the whole metal consumer units...

Wrong way around, the requirements generally distill down to 1) there must *Not* be any type AC RCDs in the supply path to the EVSE. 2) The EVSE requires a dedicated RCD which breaks both poles. Nothing actually explicity states it can't be downstream of another RCD of the same rating, however...

Its more like everyone knows how it should be done, but while T and E is a bit rough it doesn't cause any issues in practice and folk are lazy Go to a proper wholesaler and they will

Yeah, If you are just comming out side wall and into the side of the socket, I'd just use a bit of black PVC conduit, drill the hole on the outside wall 20mm at least a little way into the brick and the conduit will slot into it a little way. If its only a tiny distance you are going (like...

You say that everytime, seemingly without exception. But while electric showers do suffer from a limited flow rate if you want your water at a decent temperature; for many they are a quite acceptable compromise, for example in my own home I have an electric shower in the small shower room the...

Only that it then becomes an additional circuit and therefore before becomes notifiable to Building Control (at least in England and wales it does - Where abouts in the British isles are you - Is your handle simply indicative of where you are from, or of where you are now??)

I've actually seen very little alu wiring on installations this side of the meter, A couple of jobs with Ali cores to SWA submains, and one job that used Alumicc (alumimum MICC) which had a grey PVC sheath. All dating from the very early 70s, so 71/72 ish. Never seen domestic twin and earth in...