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I’d buy the grease. If it’s still leaking after you replaced the seal and tightened it enough and used grease then PTFE is your last resort. Sounds like it’s been crossed threaded if it still leaks.

I agree. Problems occur from over tightening. But in this case it seems to me that the problem here is from it being not tight enough.He did change the seal and screwed the lid on hand tight. Unsure what pressure could be in that particular system (zero pressure if the wet towel soaking up...

I’ve fit well over 50 of this particular TF1 magnet filters and this particular lid is quite big,so is hard to get your hand around. This is one of the reasons why it comes with the plastic spanner. Plus, with expansion and contraction of the plastic from the filter getting hot then cold that...

No point mate. The drain off sounds broken to me so won’t seal. It needs changing. Unless you can get the same replacement drain off and unscrew the guts out the new one and replace the insides.

First of all it needs to be more than hand tight.If you’ve changed the seal it’s one of two things. It simply isn’t tight enough (they do actually come with a plastic spanner) so apply top hand tight then simply knip it up with plastic spanner that’s provided. Hopefully you haven’t cross...

I wonder if the gas and air ratio is correct

Is it constant or just when boiler fires up?

Hate when this happens. Usually get a waterproof mat and a tray. Shut off both rad valves (hopefully they work) Open the union/compression nut on radiator valve. If rad valve has 1/2” compression nut I get a spare olive and a bit of 15mm cooper inserted in to drain down hose and attatch to rad...

Once drained, make sure all the radiator bleeds are open to prevent water vacuum. Last thing you want a rush of left over water coming out open ended pipes. Especially upstairs.

I would never recommend someone with lack of experience to risk this method. To much could go wrong. Not worth risking it.

Kids climbing on them? My god. Just use plasterboard fixings. Job done. To many what ifs. Nothing would ever get done. Simple jobs would be become difficult if we tried to cover EVERY base.

Exactly. Had a problem with a pump being oversized before all it did was airrate the water in the sealed system. Which leads to ask another question is the system sealed or open vented because if the pump was to big on an open vented system it most likely would pump up the open vent unless the...

21 rads and a shared return to save space. Oh dear. Flow rate must be really poor I bet it takes a while to heat up the radiators especially the bigger ones.

I agree no way. I’m guessing he said the pumps that powerful it pushes passed the zone valves?

Rads may still get hot when hotwater circuit is calling for heat. With a wiring issue this could cause heating zones not to close. He may not have noticed due to the colder weather and heating being on more frequent but know it’s getting milder the problem becomes more

I really don’t understand what you mean. Am I missing something here? He said there are 3 zones and a zone for the hotwater. They share a return pipe in order to save space. But when the zones are off on the room stats/ the heating comes on the radiators still get hot. I feel the problem may lie...

It can only be the return being shared. It wouldn’t work otherwise.

None of what your saying makes sense. If it’s not zoned why would it share a return pipe. Wouldn’t need to be shared. One flow one return because it’s not zoned.

Yeah control wiring of the heating system.

Maybe it’s wired incorrectly? Some kind of backfeed? Is it a problem that you’ve only just noticed due to the weather warming up. Is it possible that it’s always been the case? Is your hotwater hotter than it should be?