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Yes. I forget exactly what, but I think it was either a junction box or a chock block. Some kind of grub screw where the hole was too narrow to get a bigger driver in.

I got a set of Stanley Fatmax XL drivers recently. I've already bent one of the slotted drivers :(

Tilting the fitting down will look rubbish. They are 30cm tall lights, rather than the flood light type. The instructions state you can set the sensitivity for between 1m and 8m, yet even with it on minimum, it still picks cars up 8 to 10m away. Could it be a faulty PIR? (by the way...

The sensor is fixed unfortunately. Do you put the tape on the top edge, so it's effectively looking down?

I've just installed a couple of PIR lights on the front of my house. Problem is, even with the sensitivity turned right down, they still come on when a car goes past. The lights are about 8m from the road. Is there anything I can do to reduce the sensitivity even more - ie, stick...

OK, thanks. I'll call someone tomorrow. Just trying to get it sorted out because I have a 4 month old :(

I've checked all the rads. All fine.

The pump comes on fine.

I think I've found it. It has a knob, and a green light when the burner is going. It was set OK. The knob does appear to be loose and not particularly positive, although it does stop at both extents. However, on it's own, the boiler has fired up and ran long enough to get the rads hot...

Yes, it is electronic ignition. You hear it sparking when it lights up.

Yes, there is slight warmth. Feels about room temp, rather than cold. It was serviced 2 weeks back and worked fine after that. It was 2 nights ago we heard a bang. A service guy came yesterday and said the mains lead had been trapped when the boiler was put back together and he thought...

We've got a glow-worm BBU45/4 back boiler, which is about 4 years old. It's just been serviced. It appears to have developed a fault, with both hot water or central heating. The bioler fires up, runs for a minute or so, then cuts out. Comes back on about 15 mins later and does the same...

I've had a look on a few websites, and they appear to be the same thing. RE the lampshades, they come with a metal ring adaptor thing. Looks like I have to get the hacksaw out and remove the small ring from the shade and put the big one on instead! I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

To check, take the socket off the wall and look to see how the two cables are terminated. If they are part of a circuit, you will need to join them together under the floorboards. However, you cannot use a junction box, as it won't be accessable. You can either solder them, or crimp...

I've recently purchased some pendants that only take energy saving bulbs. The lable says they need 10, 13 or 18w 4pin G24q1 and q2 bulbs. Are these the same as PLC and PLT 4 pin bulbs? What is the difference between PLC and PLT? Is it simply the the PLT have more tubes? Thanks

You just need to switch the live, if it's a single pole switch.

What about running cables in safe zones?

That's fine. Make sure that the socket you are taking power from is on the ring and is not already a spur.

Depends where it is.

Interesting they have used a switch with red/black lever, and red clips to indicate phase. Still using up old stock?