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Yes

The outer slots are too release the drawer from the runners. The inner ones adjust vertically and horizontally only. I've had a muck about with the runners themselves and have managed to straighten up the drawer. Not confident it'll stay that way with any real weight in it.

Ah right. I didn't see the image. Our drawers don't have those rails.

Thanks but I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

We bought a couple of 800mm drawer bases and have fitted 2 deep drawers in each. Can anyone explain what's causing the upper drawer fronts to tilt outwards at the top (see pic)? The frontals are only adjustable up/down or left/right.

Can you tell me what the purpose of the dpm is? You advise putting it on the screed but the existing screed is over a suspended wooden floor. Is the dpm still required? If so, will Black Jack suffice?

I'm about ready to start this project. When I ply the floorboards do I need to leave an expansion gap around the edges? It's just that, on one wall there's a steel perimeter radiator which doubles up as skirting. It's not connected to the heating system but it would be difficult to trim anything...

Cheers

Can you recommend a primer?

Thanks very much

Or did you mean under the kitchen screed? There isn't one under that

Bugger! That not what I wanted to hear. The house is 1950s and the boards are original. I doubt there's a DPM under the wood.

I'm about to start leveling an uneven floor in prep for stick down LVT. Floor is a mix of wooden floorboards in one room, a concrete strip between that room and the kitchen (we knocked out a wall) and a screed on top of plastic tiles on top of floorboards in the kitchen. We've had the tiles...