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Hi Its a number of small jobs rather than 1 big job.

Hi all , I work as an electrician for a firm however a builder friend of the family has asked me to look at a large amount of work that he would like me to do.. In situations like this is it worth joining for example Elecsa which then enables me to do the work and authorise the work , do the...

nuisance tripping is a pain in the arse more so when the RCD takes out the whole board..Its at times like these when individual RCBO's come in handy as this will pinpoint the circuit..A split load board would narrow it down...

you need a cable in l out which would be a switch live to the light .... generally when wiring sensors due to the limited space for cables you would take a 3 core and earth flex/pvc t&e , the 3 cores would be switch live lout, permanent live l in and Neutral N...

your post is slightly vague , for help Id suggest advising us exactly how you have wired it i.e. what cables you have at the sensor and where you have wired too..a pic can be useful too...

thankyou :)

edit

OK dick chill your boots

yes as you have proved that the insulation is >299 when you link out the neon

I would ask the electrician to find the fault...for a fully competent electrician they will be able to narrow it down and find the cause..

Yes, the NIC recommend this method to find ZS on Lights , spurs etc rather than test live by putting your probes onto Live and Earth, obvious different for ZS on sockets..

the difference would be that the existing fitting would have 1 cable in and 1 cable out to the new light which would be fine or if you come from the junction box then each light would have just the 1 cable...

OK so you could run a cable from the junction box to the new light... a grommet is used to protect the cable from catching on the side of the hole as it enters the fitting...sometimes you will see stuffing glands used if the light is wired with a flex...

you could take another live , neutral and earth from the existing fitting to the new fitting , or if there is a junction box prior to the existing fitting then take the live , neutral and earth from the junction box to the new light..

:lol:

Yes to both....

the light you want to remove will either have a permanent Live and Neutral into it from another room and then a Permanent Live and Neutral to the next light in the living room with a switch live and Permanent live down to the switch or a Permanent live and Neutral from the first light and then a...

I disconnect the CPC's and connector block them , then disconnect the L&N then when ready to connect to the new fitting / socket etc I connect the CPC's first...otherwise as above which invloves opening up the DB...

What is the make/model of the breaker ?

On my current job the client had a new supply , service head and meter installed as the current supply ran right across the area where they were to flatten out and resurface to allow cars to be driven round the side of the garage onto the new ramps.. I installed an isolator with 25mm tails...