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Is wedged 3x2" CLS timber strong enough to hold a piece of a subtimber frame? Ceiling drop downs use more wood but are mechanically fixed. I did use this wedge chock method in steel RSJs but only to hold plasterboard around the RSJ.

True but I don't want to drill into the RSJ. Is my method ok?

There's not a lot of trunking per wall (each wall is about 3m wide) say about x3 vertical surface trunking bits at most . I don't think you completely cover the plasterboard rear with adhesive. I'm not adding cables before because I honestly don't know if I'm going to add cables. If I don't no...

I'm looking to add a stud ceiling to lower ceiling height from 2.7m to 2.4m. 3 of the edges are standard brick walls: for these edges I will use 150mm masonry screws to fix horizontal 3"x2" CLS timber (B) to the wall 1 of the edges is a steel RSJ: for this edge I will instead fix a 3"x2" timber...

I'm looking to use plasterboard adhesive to stick 18mm plaster over 25mm plastic surface trunking...

That was put up in a hurry with no planning. Yep I admit it!

The area I'm trying to cover is about 1.5m x 1m. If I starting again I may aswell lower the ceiling to 2.3m which is about 10cm below the steel beams. I could put 3x2" CLS timber spanning wall to wall below the steels (avoiding them). This way do I still need to fix the timber to the steels...

M10/M12 bolts? Ok if I were to redo I may aswell lower the ceiling even further to below the steel beams (parallel but underneath) overall ceiling height 2.3m. Basically span a 3x2" from load bearing wall to load bearing wall. So this way could I just use 2 x timber to masonry joist hangers (...

Ok if I were to redo I may aswell lower the ceiling even further to below the steel beams (parallel but underneath) overall ceiling height 2.3m. Basically span a 3x2" from load bearing wall to load bearing wall. So this way could I just use 2 x timber to masonry joist hangers ( one either end)...

So something like this would be the solution

What's your point? Why is my point that 'it's better to vertically hang timber than drill through steel beams' so controversial? It's COMMON SENSE

Well the advice I got was to 1) drill into steel beams (no I don't want a 50kg steel beam buckling and falling down), 2) redo plasterboard (fair enough I will do), 3) add rigidity to the frame (which I will do by adding vertical drop downs). So no I know I didn't do a good job - but half the...

You sure that I can get away without using the M12 holes and just use the 5mm holes with sheradized nails (i.e. structurally sound and able to be signed off by building control?) Would be a lot easier if the case

I plan to add a subframe for the whole floor so the steel beams won't be visible. Yes I know that the pink fireboard will effectively be a waste of time but hey if it gives me extra time to get out why not. It's not the fire test but the reduction in structural strength that will happen if I...

Thanks. I did screw up (lol) with other joist hangers and just used basic wood screws. BUT these were supplementary joist hangers because the 22mm chipboard spans over the noggins (held up by the joist hanger) and instead goes over the actual joist.

multi truss hangers are more useful when you're working in a confined area and simply cannot take anymore than bare minimum floorboard up. With multi truss hangers there's usually a 5mm hole (for sheradized 3mm nail) and M12 hole. Do you have to use both to be structurally sound?

Structural loading calcs for the steel beam require the beam be unholed. Even with a large safety factor (e.g. failure at 10x loading or whatever) it's not worth risking it.

The pink fireboard cladding is attached to 3"x2" noggins which is hammered between the webs of the steel beam and held in by compression so is not mechanically fixed (not bolted not screwed) to the RSJ. I was told this method is approved. Exactly as in this youtube video; . And yes I will...

Yes I am inexperienced. Most of my experience is with labouring/cementing/basic carpentry/push fit plumbing and end electrical connections. I have a full time job and do this part time. The 7"x 3" timber is 47mm wide x 145mm high (abouts). So a M12 x 75 will go through the joist widthways and...