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i believe it is a pass through heater on your model and not that expensive depending where you buy it from. certainly cheaper than a new machine. you do need to match the wattage and the bore sizes of the entry and exit of the heater so it fits the pipes on your machine. may need to change...

hi richard would that cause the m/c not to work on some programs but not others though? i would have thought none of the programs would run if that were the case here!

of course do it with the oven unplugged and ensure it is sufficiently cooled down if recently been on but the heating element that conducts the electric is inside the element housing so providing the heating element is in good condition there is no risk of electricution. if the element had...

no reason why you couldnt just use some galvanised garden wire or similar as its only to retain it in place. but really, i suppose, need something that will have little contact with the element otherwise the heat transfer will be affected, if yoy see what I am getting at.

some driers do not like very small amounts of washing in there as the humidity sensor cannot tell how wet they are so will usually stop prematurely. but they do normally start. miele - i have never been fortunate enough to come across one but imagine they have extra sensors so possibly a weight...

check sensors so do all the programmes on one side of the knob work, but none work on the other half? does it not even display how long the programme will take on the display? on the programmes that you say do not work and no error codes??? you may need to remove the dial knob to check that...

xsus and ysus on a 32"??????

do you have a dmm??? it will be needed to check/ test the switches and heating element. 1st thing is test the heating element, thats the most obvious and likely

this will show you what your looking for and where https://www.ransomspares.co.uk/parts/brands/zanussi/dishwashers/zdt11001fa%20(91153907103)/

try the rinse only, your problem is probably a faulty heating element. yes it drops the tab just before heating the water i.e the wash cycle if the rinse only programme finishes fine you know its to do with the heating cct, i.e water pressure switch, heating element, heater relay, thermostat...

you really need to remove the anti-flood switch float and clean it and inside the chamber it sits in. scale build up! and the wash cycle will not clean it as its on the intake side, not wash cycle side. the problem will probably happen again!

could you post a photo from the rear of the machine at the bottom, compressor etc.. possibly a control board down there too!

i guess the timer is permanently on/running, at certain intervals i.e when the magnet on the cogs is in close proximity to the reed switch it closes the reed switch (is the reed switch normally open? how often and for how long does the reed switch remain in its active/inactive state?, presumably...

so, now we know both dampers are working (assuming you have had the damper connected long enough to see it open/close the flap) we need to establish the voltage on the reed switch, should only be about 12v dc then unfortunately we need to trace those wires, there is no getting away from it with...

also be very cautious soldering li-ion battery cells.

in the good 'ol days, tv repair men used to whack the back of tv sets to diagnose dry joint issues, maybe thats your problem, or possibly a sticking relay or wiring issue! if the problem re-occurs and whacking it does not work start your own thread with make and model, detail the exact problem...

it is very possible the engineer is correct but could also be other things. whats the model number? so it drains, fills and circulates ok??? but at the point of heating the water it pauses for a long time and does not progress with the programme, correct??? have you tried a programme that...

perhaps beginning to make sense. its a timer!!!??? wont simply fully open the flap everytime its operated, you are not waiting long enough for it to fully open the flap. when it does fully open it will trigger the reed switch to either switch on or off the compressor or switch on a heater to...

do you get a reading of 12v dc on either of the white wires?

as far as 240v feeding it is concerned thats fine providing the circuit it is connected to makes the correct allowances, so dont try connecting directly to 240v