Search results

earlier I mentioned its a combined damper and thermostat, looking up the part is confusing as it would appear that its not actually a thermostat but a reed switch. could you confirm this by connecting your dmm to the 2 white wires and on the lowest resistance setting (disconnected from the ff)...

its going to be a case of tracing the wires back to their origin to establish whats driving the stat and the motor with the machine unplugged use your dmm to trace the wires rather than physically follow their path. take photos of both sides of any pcb boards etc... look for blown or...

your 1st photo shows a metal 'plate' screwed to the damper, presumably this acts as a spring to close the flap. is there def one on the old damper? it isnt a transit plate is it, to prevent damage whilst being installed?

looking at this picture, i assume its the correct part for your oven or at least looks the same, you are referring to the support bar clips. the support bar screws to the oven housing and the element is clipped onto the support bar.

but doesnt explain why neither are working, is the 'new part' brand new?

can you see the top heating element from inside the oven? 2 screws holding it in place, either from the inside of the oven or you will have to remove the rear panel to access the wires to the element. be sure to safely isolate the wires so they are not touching anything i.e bare metal, before...

ok, are you able to check for voltage at the damper, connect it back up and see if theres voltage on the thermo wires and the damper motor wires. heat the stat and see if the voltage changes on both the stat and the damper motor

trace the 4 wires back to find where they go

are you in the uk? ok so its a combined thermostat and damper switch. test the switch by applying voltage across the 2 black leads, where are you? in the UK???. the piston should activate and open the flap. the thermostat needs testing with a dmm for resistance, if its open cct you know its dud.

I am not familiar with these but you need to identify the part that operates the damper. must be a solenoid of some kind that pushes out a piston that pushes the flap open. this 'solenoid' will then need to be tested to ensure it is working i.e not faulty before looking further i.e checking for...

yes correct, it operates on air pressure but it is the water level that pushes the air up the tube to create the air pressure. no water = no air pressure in the tube connected to the sensor. low water level = lower air pressure high water level = higher air pressure

is the buzzing coming from the top control panel or at the base plate somewhere? i think the buzzing in your case is the mech timer. really need to find the exact part thats buzzing to troubleshoot further.

did you fix it?

did the replacement flow through fix it?

where is the buzzing coming from? the mech timer most probably, located immediately behind the control panel

great news, glad its sorted now!

the float does not look like it is centred under the white 'pan', is there a lever attached to the float, usually a blue, black or white lever (stick), pointing upwards. the lever could be wedged between the float and the microswitch. careful, the floats do easily break up especially if they...

that float is what operates the drain function microswitch, do you hear a click when you raise the float? and a click when you lower it? the relay would be located on the mainboard, 240v voltages present so be careful.

have you sorted it? photos might help

could you add a photo of the rear panel.