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Hi ban-all-sheds, we seem to have got off on the wrong foot here and you appear to have become fixated on some of the wording of my first post (that I have already acknowledged was incorrect). To put your mind at rest, all I am doing is running cable from the site of the c.u. (not hooking it...

Hi ban-all-sheds, not sure I understand your question. 'WTF' is what about? I seem to have upset you. Not sure how. Cheers, iep

Thanks securespark. That was my best guess but I wanted to be properly sure before I started putting the house back together. Cheers, iep

Hi ban-all-sheds. Apologies if I have misused the terms. Obviously I know that earthing and bonding are not the same thing. Let's put it this way, the gas and water mains in the house are already connected back to the meter using 10mm cable. All the taps etc in the bathroom are all bonded...

I'm running all the cable required for a kitchen extension from the c.u, to the site of a the extension. Already run all the appropriate cable for ring, lighting, cooker etc but am stumped on the requirement for a separate earth cable. Neither the gas nor water main will enter the house via...

Bump. Any more thoughts on this (ideally from people with experience of the Scottish regs). English regs are pretty clear cut. Not a new build, not a problem. However, Scottish regs have resulted in people I know having to have different height sockets in different rooms dependent on...

Thanks, this makes sense with the English regs but the Scottish ones seem less clear. Architects drawings for planning permission stated 400mm(?) and I didn't think to check the height of the existing sockets. Hoping there is some leeway on this spec or I've got an extra two days of wiring to...

Renovating an old house and adding an extension. The existing wiring in the main house is okay and does not need to be replaced. Just needs a few new sockets in the main living area which are easily added to the existing ring. Do I need to abide by the 400mm min height rule for these new...

Hi theoldun. Learning as I go here apologies if I'm using the wrong terms. House is 300 years old so rafters are a variety of ages and centres (400mm -> 600mm). pitched roof at 45 degrees. Two loads of insulation. 100mm between rafters and continuous 65mm below rafters. Architect...

Scratch that, noggins. Got you. Seem to be described as dwangs, briddles or nogins depending on who you talk to. Either way, seem like a good idea to me. I'll factor them in to my plans. Cheers, iep

Sorry, what's nogging? I'm guessing strips of timber behind the plasterboard along the seams? iep

Fair enough, good advice. Finish is important. I didn't realise that taped seams would compromise this. I can live with a bit of wastage as long as the finish is good. So, cutting to size and skimming is definitely the way to achieve the best finish? Additionally, the rafters only run...

New plasterboard onto rafters (in this case, rafters = studs). Not previously boarded. Only reason I was hoping to avoid cutting the board is that I wanted to go with taped seams rather than having to have the whole lot skimmed. Additionally this will be the plasterboard bonded to thick...

I need to plasterboard a wall where the studs are placed at irregular intervals (anywhere from 40cm to 60cm). As a result, the plasterboard joints will occur at points where there is no stud to attach them too. I think this has been a problem all over house as there are 8x4 shaped cracks all...

I don't have the diagrams to hand but the fundamentals are: 1. Ridge beam running length of area where joists (acting as ties) have been removed. Fully supported at both ends. 2. Rafters bolted together at apex using m12 bolts and those star timber joiner things. 3. Rafters notched just...

Ridge beam will be installed as per the structural engineer's drawings. Roof spreading has been accounted for and will not be a problem. Got in touch with architect today He's pretty sure that the combination of 165mm of celotex and 12.5mm of plasterboard should be more than enough to keep...

I will be asking the architect but he is on holiday this week. Just thought I'd canvas for opinion. Yes, ceiling joists will all be removed once the ridge beam is installed. No, we don't have purlins so a nice flat surface to work with. iep

I'm installing a new ceiling in a room that has been opened up to the full height of the roof (45 degree pitched roof). Architect's drawings show 100mm of celotex between rafters and then a continuous run of insulated plasterboard (65mm celotex) under the rafters. This all seems fair enough...

No, Scotland. Might well be the cold has done for them!

No, all the new stuff is untreated pine. However, all the new framing I'll be putting in will be pretreated and i'll double up the worst of the nibbled rafters after I have treated them so hopefully that will do the trick. Cheers, iep