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Sounds like a vote for the mighty Henry. Quite fancy Big Henry (15L rather than 9L) but it's an extra £40. Reckon I'll just live with more frequent emptying. BTW, I guess you're using your ones for relatively heavy work and they are okay? Cheers, iep

I'll be starting work tearing the interior out of our house in the next month and wondered if there are any decent industrial vacuums that can be used to pick up the dust and small bits of rubble (old cement, plaster etc). Would also be great if it could be used with table saw etc for dust...

Got you! Yes, looks much better. Thanks, iep

Hi Roofer. Afraid I don't quite follow what you mean but I am keen to understand as I need ot get the finish right on this. Are there any links or images that you could use to illustrate the approach you are referring to? Cheers, iep

Good point. Strikes me I should be able to work that out from the row of nails poking through the inside of the sarking boards? If I reckon on the cut being one slate's length below the previous row of nails (plus maybe an inch) then that should be about right. Cheers, iep

Ta denso, useful advice. Any other pitfalls you can think of? My plan is to build the frames ahead of time and then get the roofer in to cut the holes and fit the windows themselves. Any downside to this approach (for example, does the roofer usually cut the hole 'sympathetically' to position...

I'm installing a velux window into a loft space and want to sort out the framing before cutting through the sarking boards. The rafter spacing in our house is approx 400mm so I need to build a frame that allows me to safely cut a section out of one of the rafters (as per the image below)...

Thanks Dan. The more I think about this, the more problems I foresee. You're quite right about the temp regulator of course. If the HW cylinder is calling for heat for example, the flow temp of the boiler will be about 80degrees and so the floor in the kitchen would (at least near the flow end...

I'm installing underfloor heating in a house extension where the original building is heated purely by rads. I gather that the usual install would be to add a thermostatically controlled manifold and pump where the water in the underfloor pipe work is circulated by the dedicated pump and the...

Great advice thanks. Come to think of it, I've seen a few of these 'turned back on themselves' vents on a block of flats near my work. Now I know that they are. Cheers, iep

Thanks. That does look like a better idea. Cheers, iep

Always hesitant to name a boiler on this forum since it usually results in the thread descending into a series of other people's horror stories but here goes. It's a Viessmann 100W compact. Definitely suitable for a sealed system (according to the manual). I'd heard that condensate can...

Thanks but we're moving an existing (nearly new) open vent boiler. Just need to know how to route the condensate and PRV outlet pipes. Good point RE combining the two pipes and running a single one outside. Do I have to run this down to ground level (like PRV from unvented cylinder)...

I'm moving a boiler from a kitchen up into a loft. As a result will need to re-route condensate pipe and go from an open vent to a sealed system (no space for F&E tank above boiler). So, will need a new expansion tank and PRV (with outlet pipe for discharge). What are the regs for routing...

Are these electric soldering iron/pliers any good? http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=20433&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base Seems like a neat idea in principle (good for in-situ work) but would be keen to hear they actually work. iep

I need to install plasterboard over a layer of 30mm thick cellotex board. There are wooden beams behind the cellotex. My guess is that the cellotex can be screwed to the beams and then the plaster board screwed to the beams through the cellotex? I have access to a screw gun that can handle...

Perfect. Thanks.

I need a wiring centre to replace an old Randall box that was used in an s-plan CH/HW system. However due to house extension, the replacement needs to be able to support a 2 CH zone and HW system. Any products out there that are particularly good (or bad so I can avoid them)? Cheers, iep

Thanks for that. That is both good and bad news. Good that they don't cause too much upheaval to install but bad that I'm going to need so many of them (at £22 each). Was hoping there might be an alternative (cheaper) product I could use. Not wishing to scrimp, understand the importance of...