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I need to fit eaves vents to a very old property with no sofits. The existing roof design actually has the last row of slates cemented to the stone wall beneath. We're basically opening up the roof space to have a vaulted ceiling and so need to provide adequate airflow between the sarking...

Hi Tony, every second joist will be left in (to mount uplighters on) with purlins at the base of the rafters to tie it all together and spread the load. Already run by a structural engineer and signed off. Cheers, iep

Thanks again, that all makes perfect sense. Sadly, this is a very old house with no (deliberate) eaves ventilation at all. Ventilation in the loft is achieved by having no membrane below the slates. It's a fairly breezy place up there. However, to do this properly, I'll obviously need to...

Great advice, thanks. That all makes perfect sense to me. Didn't realise I'd need the continuous layer of insulation board but I don't think that will be too hard to accommodate. BTW, how do I attach the plasterboard if I go with the 70mm continuous insulation board? Presumably very long screws...

Standard pitched roof construction, slates nailed to pine sarking boards which are nailed to some fairly hefty (50mm x 250mm approx) rafters. Roof space above existing ceiling is currently unused with loft insulation laid over the ceiling between the joists. It's a fairly cold and drafty...

I need to drill a couple of 150mm holes through a fairly solid wall (double skin brick faced with stone). I have a decent SDS drill so thought I'd just buy a 152mm diamond core drill bit and use that. I've noticed though that there is a type of power drill described as being specifically for...

Got you, makes sense. So, lay the insulation, then the vcl then the boards on top of that? Cheers, iep

Yup, exactly. Not a suspended floor, just use light weight joists supported across the floor on shims (basically little piles of thin ply). There is no more than 4" of space between the concrete and the bottom of the floorboards at any point in the house. As you say, something like celotex...

Our house features a floor construction that includes a fairly level concrete slab across which 3"x3" joists are laid (shimmed as required to achieve levelling) and then with floorboards nailed down across these joists. Over the years, a lot of the shimms have worked loose and the floor...

Thanks, 'min static pressure' is rated at 0.2 bar so I guess we are right on the limit at the moment. In that case I guess our only choice is to convert to a sealed system (which our boiler is apparently happy with). Cheers, iep

Obviously the F&E tank needs to sit above the boiler (and all other parts of the central heating system) but how far is required? Currently, our F&E tank sits about 2m above the boiler and about 1m above the highest radiator in the system. All works well. We now need to move the boiler up...

Thanks ban. I guess another question then might be who makes the 'tallest' CUs? Noted from another thread that Wylex metal clad are quite tall?: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=180570&start=0 Pretty sure ours is a TNCS installation so could probably go with one of these plus a...

Thanks guys, looks like my best plan is to speak to my spark first. Cheers, iep

Tell you what, why don't a phrase this differently. Is there a brand of CU that is considered 'rolls royce' and so any electrician would be happy to fit? I used to think that MK was top dog but, as I said, the units I looked at in B&Q didn't seem particularly nicely made. Maybe the rcbos...

Ban-All-Sheds. Nice post, thanks. Like the idea of a circuit into which you can wire a generator. I might mention that to the electrician. Probably fair comment on the brand of CU. I'm sure my new electrician has a preferred brand he'll want to use. Just can't get hold of him right now and...

As regards the old precut wiring, the existing wiring runs down from the ceiling in the garage to the existing CU which is about 1 foot off the floor. The previous electrician said he would move the CU further up the wall so that he had plenty of slack in the existing wiring to work with...

Just found a cu made by TD-Line that comes complete with a full set of RCBOs. Anyone used TD Line stuff before? Any issues with it? Cheers, iep

I had the wiring checked out by a different electrician about a year ago. The guy then said that all was in order and that it was up to me whether I wanted to replace the old wired fuse unit but that the wiring would be compatible with a new RCD CU if I wanted to do that. As a result we...