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Hi Adam.. Yes a socket outlet can be isolated by switching off and removing the plug but when you have an FCU inline how can you disconnect the neutral then? Just check OSG page 34 note(ii) for me and let me know im not misunderstanding it as whenever i carry out work on an installation...

T.T earthing systems?

If like Davy says the light fitting doesn`t need a connection to earth (double insulated etc...),then you can join the earths together using a single piece of choc block at each light fitting. Doing it this way means if you or the next person wnts to replace the lights your putting in now ,with...

Yeah Spark has hit it on the head.. Carrying out the measurement you did your Ze is the resistance to earth of the supply phase and your earth (rod in your case). When you measure a Zs on,say a socket outlet you then measurement takes into account parallel paths caused by the main...

Secure... Can you get a link as to what split looks like as i have some in Bredbury. Got loads but not sure if its split or straight.

Just a quicky.... In the picture,if i follow the fuse holders from main isolator i see .. 1.Either a cooker or shower radial 2.Ring final 3.immersion or a 15/20A radial (blue colour i forget what amp it is) 4.That looks like 2.5mm phase RADIAL protected by a 32A Just double check that...

So just cover the exposed earth wire with green and yellow sleeving and screw it into a single choc block to keep it safely hidden behind the switch/ lamp.

How many lights do these switches control? I take it you have one light at the bottom and one at the top of the stairs? Are the switches single or double ones ?

So from the main service fuse run a set of tails(1) to a henley double pole block....run two sets of tails(2+3) from this,one set to the original C.U and the other set to a suitably rated switchfuse,then from switchfuse run 16mm T&E to the new C.U up in th`attic?. 1.These tails must be rated...

This is some install your planning and i would say you need to start by working out the maximum demand of the new installation ADDED to the maximum demand of the original installation is going to be too much for your main service fuse and tails. Even after diversity is applied to both your...

Didnt even know it went that big secure :lol:

If the original cable that fed the old cooker is up to the job of supplying the new cooker AND you use a backbox buried/surface mounted with a blank lid on (so the connection of old and new cable can be accessed) then yes you can extend the cable as long as it isnt so far away from the supply...

Does MICC offer mechanical protection `IF` its not run in a safe zone? Personally, seeming as your going to be plastering/browning the old hole anyway,i would chase this cable back to either,under the floor or above in the ceiling void and carry out the extensions there and run the new cable...

Hi With it being quite a large combination is the cooker supplied by one circuit or two? Im thinking it`s two and one MCB/FUSE has tripped.

This post has revived something in my noggin.... Years ago you could buy T&E which came with two red cables... Can you now buy T&E with two brown cables?

If the circuit your planning is only in a utility room and is part of the house(no need to run cables outside) why not run the radials in either ... A) 2.5mm T&E protected by a 20Amp mcb or B) 4mm T&E protected by a 32Amp mcb The 14 meter run your planning is fine for volt drop in both...

Ohms law tells us the only thing that changes with a different voltage is the ampage.... I.E 50W @ 230V=0.22A 50W @ 12V =4.2A So why doesnt a 50w lamp use 50w whatever the voltage? All i can see is 12v is safer. Someone enlighten me please :oops:

6mm twin and earth (method 1) =current carrying capacity @47A :roll:

If your work will be based on small electrical work in both bathrooms and kitchens then look at corgi for a body to join. You can download IEE/IET standard forms for most applications from the net or go look at their site and follow the link.

Yes....very true Bernard.