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is the filling loop/key removed and isolators fully closed?

is the hose kinked at all?? is there a double check vale on the pipe?? is there any isolation valve supplying the tap??

is the float valve the correct type?? ie mains / high pressure....... open the service valve FULLY, turn it anti-clockwise to the vertical position. what is the cold pressure at the kitchen tap like??

what pressure is the new tap you have just tried???

if the cold tank is filling normally (ie float valve OK) then there is nothing easy that can be done...... except replace the unit...

if the kitchen tap flows when the bath stops the blockage is in the bath section of pipe - if kitchen stops too... blockage could be further up

ok do this: run a hot tap now and see how quickly water enters the cold tank, on top of the h/w cylinder, through the float valve. the kitchen will be low pressure as is only slightly lower than the tank! for the bath, either the float valve is not filling quickly enough, the cold water...

yep, some prog room stats also need a perm live and neutral !! and as well as them both having a switched live (LR) the receiver also needs a perm live to feed the switched live (LR)....... !

that must be the prob then - when running a bath (using a lot of H/W in 1 go) the tank can't re-fill quickly enough check the float valve again whilst leaving a hot tap (or cold tap) open - does it fill quickly??? Has this h/w problem always been like this? Is there a lid on the...

no - cold water from a cold water tank is indirect. Your cylinder doesn't seem v small - maybe your cold water tank is smaller than the h/w cylinder?? then when you run a bath, the cold tank can't re-fill quick enough to force the water out of the hw cylinder, thus the air getting in, and...

it means you have indirect cold water also. it is just poor pressure - are your downstairs hot taps slightly better than the higher level ones??

no, if there is a float valve (feeding a cold water tank, which sits on top of the hot water cylinder, this is not mains, it is an indirect system).

Just a poor/low pressure setup that is all - how big is your hot water cylinder though??

the wiring is the same as for a prog room stat, BUT the receiver requires a permanent live supply to work - that's the difference :lol:

you can't have mains pressure to your h/w though (that would be unvented)! how big is your hw cylinder?

i'd say you have a small h/w cylinder (not big enough) or there is a blockage in the cold feed to the h/w part of the cylinder... hence the slow filling

the combi tanks/hw cylinder are usually low pressure. the float valve is operating OK and the correct size orifice is being used (as you said the plumber checked for)

sounds like air is getting into the system constantly thrn and causing a flowproblem - are all union connections (at rad valvaes and at the boiler) fully tight? Nothing been loosened/changed recently?

You should be able to connect it at the local switch in the airing cupboard. If there is no switch, or the switch is very old and unsound, come back and there are a couple of alternative ways of doing it safely. Do not make a "temporary" joint in the cable, there are correct fittings available...

flow thermistor may be faulty...