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Sounds like electric is your only option if you are just proposing to lay tiles on your existing floor...Expensive to run if it's to be the only heat source on an entire ground floor.

Is it just a coincidence that BG are supposed to be going after the installation market in a big way next year?...

Sealed system or open vented with header tank in roof space?

I wouldn't install a Megaflo on those flow rates...My advice would be upgrade your cold water storage capacity to 100 gallons, check your hot water storage capacity and upgrade too if need be and fit a 3 bar shower pump (Stuart Turner if possible) to run both showers. It is imperative to...

By the way I am assuming that your installer supplied the boiler.

My advice would be to get your installer back...The more you tamper with it yourself the more you leave yourself open to blame or warranty issues.

The leak might not be the pan connector...You may have a leak from the underside of the cistern...Also I recently had a WC with a hairline crack in the trap of the pan that resulted in a tiny weep.

Have you tried turning all your other rads off yet and just leaving the problematic one(s) open?...Programmer needs to be on heating only when you try this and also check that your pump is on it's max setting. Why such a big radiator?...

If I was installing what I assume is a 600x2000K2 I would do it in 15mm, directly from the main 22mm heating F&R with no other rads teed in.

Personally I would opt for a Grant...www.grantuk.com

Might be worth posting this in the Building Forum.

Did you honestly get quoted £5000.00 to supply & fit a replacement?..Are you running any underfloor heating from your boiler?...

If you are used to a gravity fed mixer via a 2 bar shower pump then no electric shower I am aware of will come close...To get comprehensive advice on this you will need to provide the flow rate (pressure too if possible would help) of your mains water supply...Flow rate can be measured by timing...

It's agood deal but a bit OTT for this specific job...Just get a 20mm dia masonry drill long enough to cope with the wall thickness. Good practice to use a small dia drill first as a pilot before using the bigger size drill bit...If you do a pilot hole first you can then drill the main hole from...

Don't waste time draining down again...Take a look at the "Air Lock in Central Heating - New TRV's Just Fitted" thread currently on page 2 and in particular KevPlumbs posts where he has included some photos that show what I have attempted to describe.

Aswell as venting the rads you need to vent the pump/pipe work above the pump in the cylinder cupboard (if thats the set up you have)...

Have you bled the pipe work above the pump in the cylinder cupboard?...Boiler probably has a pump overrun on it which is why the pump still runs for a few mins after demand has ceased.

Get yourself a little angled dentist mirror...They are handy for checking the blind side of joints once you have finished soldering to check that the solder has run around completely.

Evening Darren...What you are proposing is possible but you will need a reasonable amount of room around the pipe to work on it...There is not likely to be any movement in the pipe to connect the tee so you will probably have to use a slip coupling too. Is there not a more accessible section...

I'll get my coat...