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Position CH 180 degrees lets hot water rush through the CH which reaches 1st rad, the boiler does not start up and the grundfoss got too hot to touch, i have noticed it occasionally get hot but this was red hot.

Took programer off and found no switch or anything marked with p or g or anything else for that matter. Ran CH with all rads fully open, pump does come on but boiler still turns off after about 30 seconds, i have noticed that you can hear the water boiling before it shuts down and it does not do...

All but 1 rad are wide open on both sides, i will open this to try but it is under my plasma tv, i dont know where the switch/jumper is to change it, there is nothing i can see on the front.

Hi, are the lockshield valves the thermostat adjusters on each rad, if so they are all open fully except one which i have turned off.

Would it be worth getting someone out to service the boiler?

Turned the knob up full on the fire and switched valve to CH, this after about 30 seconds made the pipes start rattling really fast to the side of the boiler, then boiler shut off. i'm not sure that it ever worked properly, the HW was set to come on when CH came on, we only put CH on when it was...

No, i have to wait and im not sure what if anything helps to restart the boiler due to all the tests i keep running, if left for a while it will usually start up again. always starts when valve is not in CH only position so electrically it always works what ever i select at the programer if i...

The pump is set to 3 and does keep going pumping cold water round the CH

I would like some help on a few things, it was mentioned whether a knob on the boiler is set in the high position, it is set to mid, should this be on high? Does the boiler have its own pump or does the whole system just use the grundfos selectric? Should the 28mm pipes from and to the boiler be...

I really thought we had cracked it with the water flowing the wrong way through the 3 way valve but it looks like its not. I ran off all the hot water as i was getting mixed results with pipes alternating between warm and cold. From cold HW on, the 28 mm pipe to valve port AB gets hot 1st...

i removed the actuator and turned on CH, the boiler stayed lit until i manually put the spindle in horizontal position (CH), just as a test i turned the spindle180 degrees to see if actuator was on upside down though every engineer says its not, boiler kept going, the CH pipe below actuater...

Are coral good value for money in there upto 40% of sale, quoted £6250 for 3 sash 3'x5', 1 top opener 3'x5' with trickle vent, 1 side opener 2'x30'', 1 4 panel bay window 4'x8' with 2 side top openers and 2 side front openers, all windows with toughened glass, 2 doors 1 with side panel other...

Are the 15mm pipes as described above to the boiler wrong and are they likely to be the cause of the boiler turning itself of after about 30 seconds? A few of you have been saying that this could be a blockage or narrowing of the pipes and i would like your oppinions before i start to rip out...

Hi SNB, i dont know if you have read all my posts but i have never called out a plumber as the title of this post suggests, engineer stumped. Every one of the 4 heating engineers have found nothing wrong with the wireing, i have checked a wireing diagram and everything is where it should be and...

i have had a look under the floor boards where the 22mm out flow from the actuator valve to the CH which goes to a T, from here 15mm to 1 rad, 22mm to the rest upstairs, from this 22m is another T with a 15mm which goes down towards the direction of boiler with a 15mm coming up from the...

Under the fire is a knob with high and low marked, its set in the middle, i cant see any other switches or valves here, i will have to see how i get the fire out to look at the boiler more closley, i just cant see how the fire surround comes off to give me access to the fixing screws, when i do...

It says on the fire Baxi Bermuda inset 2, the only lights i can see says boiler lock out light which is not visable unless you remove the bottom of the fire. i cant get to the out pipe of the boiler but the rads are very hot when HW is running as well.

My 4th engineer who i thought was coming out to try and fix my problem took a look and said he THINKS it will have 2 tees in the return pipe and the only way to find out is to rip up all the floor boards and follow the pipes to see if there are. There must be another way to find out if it is...

Does anyone know the answers to my questions?

Thanks onetap, it was a useful place for info, unfortunately it only answered my question on the KW needed so if anyone can answer my other questions so i can have a better understanding of what is involved it would be appreciated.