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My problem is that you all just keep saying its not a good idea and comment on massive ventilation and catalysts. I have looked at a model that needs a 100cm2 vent which is not different from the one I have and does not need a catalyst. That is why I have asked for some up-to-date info from...

But aren't they 99% efficient.

I've read a lot of negative comments on Fluless gas fires but they are from quite old threads going back a few years. Has anybody got any more up-to-date thoughts on the saftey and performance. Also just to confirm do they work in the same way a gas cooker works, a cooker can be on for...

I have a similar issue, the boiler from cold will fire when heat it required and run for approximately 60 seconds on full or near full power then modulate down to d0 setting and then modulate further when target flow temp is reached. The issue I have is that when the flow temp is reached and...

Thanks I am understanding more what you are saying, but rating the boiler right down it still reaches a flow of 55c and the house does reach 20c eventually. I think I need to monitor the gas usage and see how much more efficient this boiler is. I do monitor usage very closely I have solar PV...

Yes sorry w means watts and 9920 watts is right

Concerning the 10c drop from d.40 to d.41 I have just checked the drop across the radiators and on the whole it is about 10c some a bit more some a bit less. Is there a way to increase the drop across the rad? For example increase or decrease pump speed. Thanks

The boiler is not a combi. Part of the problem is the boiler not being able to modulate low enough and the flow temp exceeds the target and the boiler shuts down. If I reduce the output it takes a lot longer to reach the flow temp so therefore does not shut down, and as it is at a lower temp for...

I have range rated my boiler down, mainly to cut down the noise when it rushes upto flow temperature. (I have weather comp) I was wondering if there is a benefit from range rating as low as you can so long as it eventually reaches temperature and therefore allowing the boiler to condense for...

Can you explain C21 please, the overshooting at startup is not a problem now it is colder but I would like to know how I can get the best out of the system when the weather starts to warm. 418 & 430 Thanks

Which boiler have you?

I have a more modern well insulated house, buts it's good that you have got it running well I'm still fiddling, I suppose I'm trying to keep the return temp down but not get too much cycling.

But won't a heating curve of 2.6 nearly always exceed 65c which will not be good for condensing. I use 55c min temp and 1.8 curve to keep the temp down. It's not easy to get efficiency and ease of use.

Thanks, I am starting to get the hang of this now, all your suggestions help and with the cold weather it seems to be working fine, i have been able to curve the down to 1.8, this give me a flow temp of about 62 in the cold and I have 55 set as minimum for the warmer weather.

Is there no Valliant experts out there that can run there eye over what I am finding?

Can I confirm some findings on the matter of cycling, and get it straight in my head whet is happening. When the system is cold, the system fires up, runs at a high setting (I assume d0 related) and brings the flow d40 up to flow temp target. At this time d41 will be some way behind...

I assumed that but they said it was if you did not have a thermostat.

I called Vaillant technical today as well and they confirmed that if the VRC430 was away from the boiler and used as a thermostat you should also set it as thermostat not modulating. They said modulating was for when you had no thermostat and it would use the outside temperature and the curve...