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looks spot on wobs (have banked uk web page for future use) me too a fan of joy division - substance 87 being my fav having a few of the older tracks on it along with the new

big all, many thanks - had never spotted the special blade for the jigsaw before. well impressed (even spotted it in my screwfix cat which i keep by my bed) :D

it's an interesting combination. if i'm going to the expense of buying a hessian then i always fit the grippers and underlay. the appearance is without doubt the real thing. i also fit felt-backed no underlay. i've also put felt-backed on grippers and underlay. the drawback of the felt is...

i've not tiled onto floorboards but would expect the 12mm ply to give the rigidity u need providing it's well screwed down. i think u might be best putting the ply down over the full area to avoid the problem with the skirting height. otherwise u will need to cut the skirting dog leg fashion...

the damp reading is most likely damp coming through the concrete - it would need a liquid dpm to sort. getting the tiles/adhesive off is a right nightmare. i use a propane blow torch and scraper (probably best hiring). make sure room is well ventilated and if poss use a p3 mask. a thin top...

i don't believe there is anything on the market that will help. the only power tool i've found any good for cuts close to walls is a jig saw. i have a circular saw but that can't get close enough. i find a pad saw is sometimes useful compared to other manual saws. i also find stitch...

sorry got here too late. you ideally needed 2" gaffer tape (to join the underlay along the abutments) and 3/4" blue cut tacks to fix the underlay at the corners. for the grippers use a piece of mdf for the spacer and to protect the skirting. i use 6 mm thk for the carpets i buy. if the...

floorboards are hard to get up and likely to damage. if the reclaim are top notch then go for them - the grain of the wood is likely to be much better than today's cheaper alternative. trouble is i have a nagging feeling they might be more trouble than it's worth in terms of installing...

i would expect the whole of the floor to be damp. what's happening is the lino is trapping the damp from evaporating into the air. under the cabinets there must be enough air flow to disguise the damp. if u are going to use ceramic tiles ie impermeable then ok to go straight down. if...

lofts are very dirty places "dust". taking up old insulation is not a pleasant task and u would need for me a p3 mask. i'd leave the existing in place and just put new on top. i don't know of thermafleece but don't see a problem if the insulation is a good as the normal glass fibre...

there are no images - u need to use photobucket or similar and then add a link

from the glass screens i've fitted i believe that "opening out away from the bath" is not really on. they are made for the occasional opening only. i think in terms of a sealant again this is not really going to have the life needed - the action of opening is continually wearing the seal...

i always go for felt underlay. i feel it's got the better tog rating. might not have quite the same bounce as other types but they all don't keep that new feel for long anyway.

it's not an easy job to remove individual floor boards - but that's what u will need to do. u need to be very careful with electric cables & gas/ch/water pipes underneath. if i can see what i'm doing (ie from an already lifted floor board) i normally use an electric circular saw to cut...

apologies but i've only read the original post and skipping through noticed wall ties. 2 thoughts: 1) i would tank the walls personally - if there is a lot of debris in the cavity it's just pretty much impossible to sort the damp for sure. 2) don't jump to wall ties - a lot of people are...

i've not done willow screening only seen it. i would use it next time i have a similar need. the good point for me is your not a slave to it as u don't need to paint it like say a trellis. i would expect 10 yrs out of it. i'd buy a section and prop it up to see how it looks before deciding...

i use 5:1 for both laying flags and pointing but expect 6:1 would also be fine (but on the limit ie don't go towards 7:1) the higher the cement the stronger it is and the more prone to cracking. 3:1 has specific applications only bedding lintels etc there is a spot on website for outside...

i don't know of coarse filler but i guess a trip to your local builder’s merchants might identify. i would just use finish plaster. paint on some diluted PVA (between 2:1 & 1:1 water:pva) before applying the plaster. the only trouble is that finish plaster will crack if put on thickly. so...

i'm surprised - laminate has a durable clear waterproof coating as the top surface. this should have stopped the oil getting into the "wood" underneath. it could be that it's just dried on and a little washing up liquid and hot water might just remove it. if not then i use wood stain (the...

i've not done any solid fuel fires so not 100%. i would take photo to your local fire shop and get their advice (or contact online suppliers). i'm not convinced on the need for the liner (they are expensive). on gas fires a smoke test is carried out which checks that no smoke enters the...