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see this other post (similar) http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=132679 the only way i know to seal the top of the wall is to put coping stones on the top. the problem is as you've identified (the water and the frost)

it's really down to the individual’s personality. most people would prefer to earn the money or extend their mortgage and pay someone else. either they are not practical, not got the time or not interested. if the individual can answer yes to the above 3 and does not mind getting things wrong...

probably leave well alone. your certainly not paranoid. on the face of it the work sounds like a complete bodge. the only reason to go near this is if u are getting a very good price. u would also need to get a full survey and be prepared to use this to get a further reduction in the...

i'm not 100% sure on this one as i've not done this type of floor. PVA is a good sealer and i use it on kitchen fitting to protect open chipboard from water ingress. I also know that some types of PVA re dissolve when a subsequent coating is applied (eg i don't apply it to say plasterboard...

i'd agree - willow screening is 100% spot on.

i think constructing a dormer to be quite a challenging task (i've not done roofing). it's probably the No1 putting me off doing a loft conversion (the house is open to the elements to a certain extent). the following library books are worth a read: Loft Conversions: Planning, Managing and...

i've not done this particular job. varnish is hellish to get off (blow torch or chemical) and takes a long time. i think u could sand the existing and then re apply new varnish (i would try a small area to be sure 1st) i'd be tempted to paint over if u don't mind loosing the looks that...

Barkingmad, u've got me chucking for sure. don't use sharp sand - u must use plastering sand (ie washed sand). the reason for this is that normal sand contains salts whereas the plastering sand doesn’t. these salts will otherwise lead to damp. i use 3:1 on the 1st coat (10mm) and 4:1 on...

i've not got a good word for terylene (it does not stick to the brickwork). exmet sounds a bit ott to me. it's certainly the 100% safe solution. it's a difficult one to call and i think only you can call it. if the terylene is poor (ie coming off in most places) then i feel it's a knock...

render is a useful option for renewing a wall that's past a cleanup and repoint (as long as the wall is structurally ok ie not falling down). i don't really like covering up brickwork as u end up becoming a slave to it. generally it ends up being painted and painted does not last. the only...

i'd have a go at doing it conventionally. as long as u take your time u will be able to make a good enough job for a garden wall. u will need to read up on it first and have a few tries just with wet sand to get the hang of it. i know it's probably a bit ott but worth a thought i went to...

the depth at 1.5" makes it ok for concrete or screed (whatever is easiest) the idea of the dpm sheet is to effectively create a bath for the new mortar/concrete to sit in. the trick is to get good buttering so that there are no voids ie any extra mortar/concrete is squeezed up the sides when...

u definitely need to sort out the damp before putting new floor down. what to do depends on how stable the sub floor is "the concrete" - is it pretty solid and not going anywhere ie sinking/cracking. if so then no need to dig out (biggish job). i would probably infill any low spots with...

i'd use mortar (5:1 sharp sand: cement) not concrete (concrete being for >1 to 2" depth). i'd ideally knock/chisel out the previous "repair" then butter the area with mortar "thin scrap all over", then put a sheet of plastic dpm down and cover over with mortar. try to lap the dpm up the edges...

i don't think it's going to be that easy. the acid only removes very thin/small areas. i don't believe it would damage the tarmac as ideally u would only apply to the cement areas and it's washed off with water after the 20 odd mins working time. i guess u need to try a small area 1st. i...

the hse website is a must http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/ if u do the work yourself make sure u get a P3 mask and use paper disposable overalls and double bag as suggested earlier inc the overalls. wet the area with a spray to keep the dust down before u start. u would need to find a...

Yes. u will ideally need a cement mixer which can be hired (v.hard work otherwise). the C20 mix i use is 1:2.5:3.5, cement : conc sand "sharp sand" : aggregate, (1:2:4 is also used). 20mm aggregate is normal or buy all-in ballast ie sand and aggregate the max ratio of water : cement is...

no need for any embarrassment. it doesn’t look that bad too me and a lot in smokeless zones like me are quite envious. I’m not sure what amount of work you’re permitted so i will leave this to u. the following ideas cross my mind. 1) the fire place looks what i call open or real fire ie...

you'll get there and it then be all worth it. just take your time, think ahead and don't panic - all can be fixed. best wishes

Richards spot on in the need for the mesh - i too use it in the circumstances he describes. i like his idea of using the bonding which i had not thought of - i've banked it for future use - thanks RC.