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1) Condensation occurs when water vapour condenses on a cold surface. Warm air is capable of holding more water vapour than cold air. 2) Insulation does not stop water vapour unless it is combined with a vapour control layer (VCL) 3) Breathable membranes have limits. That is a newly plastered...

That would seem to be more of a plinth than a hearth as it had been built over the existing skirting, was it just a feature under an electric or gas fire? The floor construction is strange - as the level appears to be the same under the carpet it can be assumed the floor build up is the same...

There's so much wrong with this roof that the only option IMO is to strip off and start again Just a couple of points:- 1. When you worked out the weight difference you've based it on Duoplains - your tiles are Marley Moderns or Redland Mini Stonewold or something similar. 2. The photo...

Definitely don't leave the loft hatch open, that will just let the moist air into the loft and the fan will just blow it around - it's not a dehumidifier.

:shock: :shock: Keep an eye on this although you should be able to tell if it's a leak or condensation. Your roofer has installed new underlay so you shouldn't notice a leak anyway unless it is getting behind the lead; but if the render was cracked before then that could have been the cause...

Your roofer has been a little unconventional by using individual pieces of lead put between the tile laps just like a soaker. If done properly (and the photos seem to indicate that it has been) then this will be weatherproof. The reason that he has done the flashing this way rather than in...

What's a J Type ridge? I would agree that lead is acceptable if correctly installed or possibly a combination of lead and ridge

A 510 x 305 mm (20 x 12") slate laid with a 115mm headlap is suitable for a 20 degree roof pitch in an area of moderate exposure. You're slightly out on those criteria but IMO you're close enough. Depends if you've got a nasty Clerk of Works!

Seems quite a reasonable answer to me. It's the question that needs a bit of work.

The Dry Verge is for concrete tiles which are easy to remove rather than slates; the felt is under the battens so would not need to be folded back

This is from the Marley Eternit Refurbishment Dry Verge

The stepped flashing has been done wrongly; the cover flashing looks to have been done in separate pieces which do not have sufficient lap. Also you can see that the upstand of the soaker can only be about 25mm - nowhere near enough! I would suspect that water is also getting in where the top...

I'm not 100% here but Marley do their Dry Verge in a 'Refurbishment' kit and I believe it contains something to extend the battens

Obviously can't be certain but I would think that if you spread the load by putting a scaffold board across several glazing bars it would take the weight of a (average) man quite comfortably

Does the hole have to be 1.5m cubed i.e. each dimension 1.5m? Or does it have to be 1.5 cubic metres i.e. each dimension approx 1.15m? If the latter it could mean a saving on materials and labour

Perhaps something like this can be adapted

No, lead doesn't corrode

It's been a long time since I was called lad but I seem to remember that it was by another opinionated prig who couldn't admit he was wrong

That's what you said Still wrong

Seems likely that no-one ever connected the pipes to the tile vents. See if you can locate the vents above the roofing underlay, use a stanley knife to make an 'x' shaped cut in the underlay and with a bit of luck the name of the vent will be stamped on the underside. Go to your local...