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Eaves course - yes you're right Battens - should be 25x50mm Fascia - yes take that up to 30mm above top of rafter (measured perpendicular to rafter) and that will ensure your slates lay nicely

IMO the problem has been caused because the flashings are incorrect. Each piece of flashing/soaker is trapping water which finds its way inside; I expect that the water was originally kept out by the underfelt which has now rotted. Large format flat tiles should always have a secret gutter...

This

The upstand can just go onto the render, do a nice straight deep chase, fix lead with wedges and seal with Leadmate mastic. Alternatively, chop off the bottom of the plaster, fix Renderstop (bell bead) and make good. IMO it looks a more professional job but obviously ther's more work to it...

That will give a greater safety margin but new nail holes will need to be formed

Your lead at the top edge can be done in two ways. Either one piece tucked into chase and dressed onto slates or two pieces lapped by at least 75mm vertically. Both ways are acceptable and down to personal choice and abilities (option 1 requires more precise measuring and forming)

You need a 110mm headlap so gauge will be 600 - 110 / 2 = 245mm That is suitable for their minimum recommended pitch of 23 degrees but you should be ok at 22 provided it's not very exposed.

If your slates have 3 holes in them then they are probably fibre cement (Eternit type) with 2 holes roughly in the middle on each side of the slate (for nails) and 1 at the bottom (for a copper 'rivet') The gauge is determined by the size of the slate and the pitch of the roof If your...

These people will be able to help

It's a bigger job than you originally thought. You won't be able to cut the nails off as that's the only thing holding the tiles in place! The bottom 2 or 3 courses will need to be removed, an eaves batten (if required) fixed in place, and new eave tiles purchased and nailed to batten then...

What tiles are they? If, as I suspect, they are Plain tiles then it is probably the bottom (eaves) course that are fixed to the fascia. This is not normal practice but there are occasions when a tiler might 'cheat' Sometimes the first eave tile is replaced by a normal length tile laid...

The edging sander is controllable and will easily get rid of the paint, the finishing sander gets rid of any 'swirls' in the sanding

IMO the drum floor sander is too 'vicious' and it is very easy to end up with high and low points. I have had very successful results using an edging sander together with a finishing sander Mark 1 Hire in Sth Essex are competitively priced

Code 5 lead can be laid in bays up to 2000mm long between steps/drips. Code 8 can be laid in bays up to 3000mm long (those bays at Harewood look longer than that Mr Doherty!)

The Redland Regent tile can be laid on roof pitches down to 12.5 degrees and the Forticrete Centurion will go down to 10 degrees; however even these tiles won't be suitable if your roof has valleys.

If they send round the roofing contractors who did it in the first place then they are obviously not going to condemn their own work but will probably just bodge it back. Your roof is a really, really bad piece of workmanship and it all needs pulling off and doing properly. Don't accept...

But it's not a DIY Disaster - it's been done by 'professionals'

Incidentally I'm sure those battens are 25x38mm, the current standard for interlocking tiles is 25x50mm and has been for some time. You definitely should get the builder to sort out your problems and threaten them with the NHBC

That is an absolutely atrocious job, not only has the lead flashing not been installed properly (and been dessed into position with the back of a shovel) the tile verge undercloak which has been bedded onto the blockwork wall should have been somewhere near straight, not looking like the...

As previously stated it must be installer error but in this instance it is a little strange as it's almost more difficult to fix the dry verge units incorrectly than to do it right. The most common mistake made by an inexperienced roofer is to cut the battens flush with the barge board as...