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Buy or borrow an anemometer. I got this one and just held it at the inlet of each fan with one on, other on and both on. In my case with rigid ducting and a Y piece, there was only a slight reduction when both were running Brian...

You might already have an AAV in the loft - I believe that is normal. Could be that it is stuck closed I’m not an expert in these things, just came up with an easy way to figure out which way the smell is getting in - I live in a flat and have had problems both ways, but the cling film proved...

There’s probably a better way than this, but it worked on mine First you need to work out if the water is being sucked out of the trap or pressure in the drain is pushing the bad smell up I cut a square of cling film and taped it over the drain but left the cling film loose then I could see if...

Only for a few seconds when partially open it seems

I have a timer set to about 10 minutes, which seems to be plenty. Like others have said, getting air in is important and we have plenty The noise is part rattle from the flaps when it is partially open, and the air noise is louder, presumably because a lot of air is moving through a small hole...

In the same situation, I used one of these: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON30.html It’s a bit noisy until it’s open, the pretty much like any other extractor. Keeps our bathroom steam free and we have 8m of 100mm ducting Brian

Some use Bluetooth to set them up, others make their own wifi hotspot. Maybe it’s one of those that gives them access Brian

Try these guys: http://www.the-camera-house.co.uk/3.stm Description matches this one: AFD352 Worth giving them a call Brian

You would need a safety relay (possibly two) and double cross-checked valves too to do it properly. Needs a risk assessment

I had a similar situation and fitted one of these https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON30.html You will probably need a timer module too, so not the cheapest option. Works great in our flat with 8m of 100mm rigid duct and a flexi bit at each end. Needs a 150mm hole in the ceiling though...

No, something like this: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/safety-two-hand-control-switches/1837300?gb=b

Our energy use in summer is double for the nighttime 7 hours compared to the daytime 17 hours, and about 5 times in winter Brian

Thanks all and sorry for the hijack E7 suits us fine as our usage is low - you get to a point where servicing and maintenance of a gas-based system becomes significant in the total annual cost, so not sure we would save anything. Also, no gas in the building, and no sign of anyone giving...

Is this true? Me and about 100 neighbours all use E7, so this is a worry. Do you have a source for that ericmark? Brian

I would get an LED (GU10 or whatever) and try it, even if you have to wire it to the back of the existing holder temporarily. The only reason it wouldn’t work is if they are switched with triacs - these are pulsed on and rely on a minimum current to hold them on for the rest of the half-cycle...

Car chargers (and most non-linear loads e.g. inverters etc.) have a harmonic current that doesn't cancel in the neutral A three-phase car charger (or inverter etc.) eliminates this problem as there is no neutral connection...

Thanks, yes, and that is my fallback option Found a couple of suppliers of non-OEM online, but no idea if they are better or worse than the ebay ones Brian

One of these

If the ducting runs any distance, I would get one of these: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ADICON30.html We have 8m of 100mm ducting from our bathroom to the outside wall and it clears the steam really fast Will need a bigger hole in the ceiling (160mm), but ducting should be OK Brian

Is the feed to the top immersion heater still live? You are describing exactly the scenario I had, where once the top half of the tank was hot enough, the thermostat in the top immersion opened solving the problem Brian