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"deserve the credit as a well managed team" Noseall has hit the nail right on the head, get rid of the manager and his pet idiot. then and only then will City play as a team. :wink:

Depends what time you set the " Alarm " for....doesn't it? :D :lol: :wink:

I would have your alternator checked out, the voltage should be about 14v with the engine running and all electrics on ( lights,blower, heated screen etc ). Have this checked before you splash out on a battery. If your car starts ok with a fully charged battery (using jump leads) then the glow...

As above, but you could check the belt that drives the brush, maybe needs changing and the ends of the brush are free from fluff, hairs etc which will stop the brush turning. :wink:

Hi Owen, I think the best advice I can give you is to acquire a Haynes Workshop Manual for your model and year. All the info. you are seeking will be in there. :wink:

" Spare a thought for Michael O’Leary, Chief Executive of 'Ryanair'....... Arriving in a hotel in Dublin, he went to the bar and asked for a pint of draught Guinness. The barman nodded and said, "That will be one Euro please, Mr. O’Leary." Somewhat taken aback, O'Leary replied...

I assume you mean low down shelving Joe!! :wink:

If you obtain a "Haynes Manual" you can read up and judge for yourself if you have the tools and the confidence to tackle it yourself, or you need to ask someone else to do it. :wink:

Try here. https://www.radio-code.co.uk/order_processed.php?status=complete&display=free :wink:

First check the battery and starter motor terminals are clean and have good contacts. Check a good earth by connecting a jump lead from the battery earth to the starter or engine block. If it is still the same symptoms change or have the starter checked /repaired. :wink:

One that Inky Pete may be interested in !!! "The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists" by Robert Tressell. :wink: Read it here for free. http://www.gutenberg.org/catalog/world/readfile.php?fk_files=1452875

As Peter.N. says, then if no voltage look to a faulty ignition switch or wiring from switch to starter. :wink:

Have the gates and posts made ( with adjustable hinges ) and get a mate to help you to fit them. Not rocket science to fit. Spirit level, Drain or clay spade, 18ins -2ft deep holes 3or4 Bags of postcrete, set them using blocks and props then leave them as long as you can, over night if...

If you continue to drive it with a knackered turbo you could cause a lot of damage. i.e. oil constantly dripping on the pistons will eventually start to build up causing a hot-spot which will melt the piston crowns at the edge. You also risk putting a large quantity of oil into your exhaust...

Have another readout done and see what comes up. Probably the cheapest way in the long run. :wink:

Look for a bulge on the walls (inner and outer) of the front tyres if none present, jack it up and check for misshape/bulge on the treads. :wink:

A shocker will react differently with you pressing down on it and the weight and momentum of the car. The shocker is there to stop the car bouncing on the spring, so I would go for new shockers or get a garage to give their opinion. They should be changed in pairs. :wink:

First of all check the wiring loom for chaffing/rubbing against something, if you can't find anything. run your car each day with 2 of them disconnected in turn this should highlight the offending wiring. also check at the rear of the fuse block for arcing etc.

If it starts and ticks over ok, the damage is probably just to the turbo blades Change the turbo and clean the oil feed lines out then make sure you change the oil and filter at least yearly. dirty oil will wreck a turbo charger, along with other things. :wink:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f9/4407d1199911273-plug-tow-bar-electrics-towing_socket_wiring_189.jpeg :wink: