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It will be costly "trial and error". Have a diagnostic readout done, it should point you in the right direction with minimum cost. :wink:

I think you should take it back to the place where you had the head done or have a compression check done first to ensure that the job was done properly. :wink:

Hi, I would have thought a pressure fault would have been logged if pressure switch was faulty. Try cracking the injector pipes and turn it over to see if you get fuel at the injectors. the A.A. guy did check that your timing belt was o.k. didn't he ? :wink:

Not familiar with this car but check if the fuel lift pump is working ( situated in the fuel tank). Turn ignition on and listen for the pump running for a few seconds. Had this with a Picasso but that showed "low fuel pressure" on fault codes. :wink:

It's most likely to be the battery, but go and have them both checked out at Halfords or Motorworld for free. :wink:

Press and hold button between the speedo and fuel gauge, Switch ignition on, the display will flash for 2 seconds, Keep button depressed until " ----" appears in the display. Release button, turn ignition off. :wink:

I would first check that you don't have an air lock in the system. When you are sure you have no air locks in it and if the temp still continues to rise, have the head gasket checked by a local garage. :wink:

Marty, After reading your reply I would now tend to go with Burnerman and say the U.J. is the problem. :wink:

I think it is probably the backplate touching slightly. Remove the wheels and make sure you have a clearance from the disk to the backplate all round, if not bend the plate away slightly. :wink:

Have you checked the front tyres for abnormality's, i.e warping or bubbling? :wink:

Try checking/replacing fuse No. 12.( heater blower motor fuse ) The fault code relates to the lambda sensor that has already been explained in earlier posts and has nothing to do with the heater blower motor. :wink:

I think you should go for the coils as "andyandy2" has suggested, cheapest and from the codes it is indicating, one is bringing in the others.

The coolant temp sensor sends a signal to the E.C.U. ( engine control unit ) which adjusts the air/fuel ratio. It works like the old choke but it is controlled by the E.C.U. It does not control the temp it just sends information.

Try changing the E.C.T. ( engine coolant temperature sensor ) About £10-12 at a motor factors. :wink:

First of all, look and see if the switch has come loose and needs adjusting. If not:- Try removing the switch and bridging the wires ( by-passing the switch ) with the ignition on. If the lights come on it's the switch :wink:

I would look for a faulty door actuator or broken wire(s) where they pass from the car to the door. check the actuator by disconnecting it then try locking each door (starting with the passenger door). :wink:

Try removing the " Idle Speed Control Valve" and give it a good soak/clean with carb cleaner. It's at the back of the throttle body (near the top of the bulkhead) and has a 4 wire connecting plug. Remove the plug then remove two screws( Torx, Allen or Phillips ). It is spring loaded...

If you do need an e.c.u. repair try here:- www.the-ecu-doctor.co.uk :wink:

You can test with an "ampere meter "depending on where you connect it. Each plug should take about 7 amps:- 4 plugs would take 28-30 amps. :wink:

You probably have broken wires in the loom as it passes through to the tailgate, just rejoin them. :wink: