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Try changing the "Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor" about £12-£15 from Euro Car Parts or G.S.F. :wink:

You may find it's location is in the fuel tank but check the fuse and relay first. As already advised, obtain a manual. :wink:

280 NM :wink:

Are you sure you replaced it with the correct bulb? if so, try another bulb of the same spec ensuring you have good contacts and earthing at the holder. :wink:

Try refilling, ensuring you bleed it as per manual. Then if it happens again, as John says, look to the head gasket. :wink:

As per your previous post on this vehicle, did you look and/or ask here?? http://the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/ :wink:

Try Here:- http://the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/ :wink:

If the radiator is cold and the engine hot without a thermostat, I would check for air lock and bleed the system. don't forget to put the interior heater to hot before you bleed it. :wink:

Best advise I can give is, Get hold of a Haynes Manual, read the relevant chapter then (if you feel up to having a go) get the locks from the Seat main agents. :wink:

Try putting your weight on it with the drop valve open. :wink:

A number of things could bring the light on,if you are not happy with your first garage try another for a computer readout then decide from the info they give you what to do next. Either fix it yourself or pay them to do it and erase the fault code. :wink:

I need more information:- What c.c, What year, what type of bolts ie torx/star or hexagon? :wink:

Hi, The sensors don't stop the pump from working, they send information to the E.C.U to give optimum combustion. I think you should either do as previously advised with test lights or change the pump/sender unit in the fuel tank. The sender and pump are separate but put together in the one...

What happened to the fuel pump/sender unit you got from the scrap yard, did you have it fitted? :wink:

All future televised england world cup matches have been moved to the 'Gay Adult' channel. Apparently,, the sight of 11 Ar*eholes getting hammered frequently for 90 minutes was far too explicit for ITV.. :wink:

If it has been off recently it should come with a little persuasion, give it a spray of WD then a good wiggle whist pulling upwards. It is on a splined shaft. :wink:

According to my info (autodata). No. 9 fuse on the fuse/relay plate under the bonnet is the supply to the pump which is immersed in the fuel tank. Look for corroded or dirty connections. I think access to the pump is under the back seat. See if you can obtain a Haynes Manual for the info you...

I think the answer lies in your request for help. check the circuit to the fuel pump for a poor connection, starting with the fuse. You don't say what year your car is, so I can't tell you exactly which number fuse connection to check first but try No.2 or No.9 in the engine bay. If that looks...

A fault code readout should point you in the right direction (even if it won't start). :wink:

You don't say what engine is in your 2001 Zafira, hope you get your answer from the following info (Autodata). Petrol. 1.6 = every 40,000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first. 1.8 = every 40,000 miles or 4 years whichever comes first. 2.0 = Turbo =every 40,000...