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Depends how you do it. The finishing is the only potentially specialist part. Trouble is, it may be most of the job. DIYer could easily bang up celotex and cladding. Some types of render are specialist "systems" but you dont have to use these. Brick slip cladding needs special fixing mesh...

The good thing is if he asks for underpinning, the holes for the first set of bays will be almost dug ! Simon.

2 people ? I'm sure your floor will hold that ! Simon.

Yes, if the original UBs were spec'd for zero floor load (due to assumed joists the other way), and are now to have the floor load on them, the beams may need to be increased in size. My struct eng thought I'd need new beams after the original RSJs gained some extra load from an extension...

Normal vinyl based emulsion (a PVA-type base) will never really be washable. You can get acrylic-based emulsions that are more durable, or as stated, oil-based will be the best. But oil-based doesn't really handle like a normal emulsion. Simon.

In order to avoid cold bridging at the doorway, what you should really do is remove a course of bricks from the inner leaf, fill the cavity trough with DPM / concrete up to the level of the beam and block, then run insulation right across the lot up to the door and screed across the top (with...

I think its usually diesel that is used as a lubricant, especially when its being pumped. There's a handy source of it on the truck ! Simon.

Very common to be solid 9" between houses. Cavities were added to deal with damp, not sound. If they are standing near the wall you will hear them. I was glad to get a house with halls together, so when the doors to the hall or landing are shut, you are isolated. But now I can hear the...

The areas where the mortar is will be colder, so it is probably condensation causing very slight dampness there. The colour difference is probably very slight, but the eye is very good at spotting patterns so it tends to stand out. It *could* be dampness coming through but only if there is a...

??? Do you go to B&Q ? Pack of 10 8mmx120mm frame fixings from toolstation = 1 pound and 32 pence. Screwfix similar prices. I've done direct screwing and frame fixings - the fixings to hold better due to the bigger contact area. Simon,

Could you tell us where the good quotes were from ? I have only found cheaper than seconds for large orders - was yours a large order ? Simon.

Its a special rule for a "side extension". The main purpose of this is to limit a side extension (e.g down the whole side of the house) from increasing the width of the house by more than half. However, bizarrely, it also applies to your situation because you are building to the "side" of the...

A few mm gap is required to allow for expansion of the plastic with termperature variations. It there is none the glass could crack, although it is unlikely. The gap should be large enough to get low expansion foam in, so 5mm is probably about right. A huge gap is due to poor measuring, unless...

24% of a thermal element from what part of the house ? 24% of a "room" ? The whole house ? What if "rooms" are not clearly delineated ? Simon.

Redland regent goes to 12.5 degrees, and forticrete centurion interlocking concrete tiles go down to 11 degrees. Centurion have baffles to block rain driven underneath. Simon.

What are you trying to fix ? Several fixings spread over an area can help distribute the load. A screw into the block (no pilot hole required) is OK for light loads, and loads at right angles to the screw where there is no pullout force. I fixed the wall plate restraint straps this way...

Surely you can reach or see into the void from the loft ? Or at least access the void from there. If so, you could at least put some insulation between the rafters from there. Simon.

Dont forget the newish method of drywall fixing foam. Its like expanding foam but sets much denser. Saves mixing up adhesive. Its also better thermally. Bear in mind though it is slightly compressible, so not good for fixing kitchen wall cabinets through. I used a mixture of battens and drywall...

8-yard close at £110 quid here. Simon.

The gap should be above the insulation, not below ! If you can get to the roof void and joist ends by removing the bargeboards (if you have them !), you should be able to pull out the wool with a large fish-hook type affair. You could then lay some more wool against the ceiling (reverse...