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Wondered how long it would take someone to quote from the textbooks. This is the real world. You carry on bossing into your castiron stack. I'll be on the next job by the time you've finished. And customer will be happy as I won't have ripped him with pointless labour and £40 charge...

Makes no odds. Hopper can go as high up the wall as you want

chemical flush means you add a sludge remover chemical and circulate it round the system for a few hours to a few weeks then drain off and refill a couple of times at least,the last time you refill, adding an inhibitor chemical to protect the system. it's not a big job to do. a powerflush...

Can't you just run the waste pipe to a gulley or a hopper? That's what most people do.

Perhaps you should look at it as a choice between a powerflush or a chemical flush not a powerflush or nothing. Powerflushing is not the be all and end all of efficient heating systems. Chemical flush would be whole lot cheaper and probably all it needs.And it probably needs a clean if it's on...

They sell hundreds of purmos everyday.there is nothing wrong with them and they look ok. There's nothing much to choose between them and mos other rads. Same goes for Vogel and Noot, Quinn Barlo,Myson,Stelrad.they're all ok. It's usually not down to choice of brand. It's down to what's available...

Well it has to be better than a 5mm one at least. Tbh it will probably be no worse than some branded acrylic baths like Ideal Standard and Twyfords. And probably cheaper.

Sticking trv is more likely to be a hammering/juddering sound. If the rad is mounted on brackets without the plastic inserts-as stated previously-the rad makes a 'pinging' noise as it expands/contracts.

wasn't done under a 'Warmfront' grant, was it?

It is sometimes the fault of the rubber sealing washer at the base of the flushvalve-either worn or some dirt is stopping it sealing the outlet hence water trickling into pan. To remove the flushvalve you normally turn the whole body of the flushvalve anti-clockwise very slightly and lift out...

Sorry, but that's not correct. Faulty pressure vessel causes both pressure loss and pressure increase. many threads on here saying the same. Eg here: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=249578#249578 or here: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=82922#82922 or...

It wouldn't do it any harm to give it a hot flush to see what the colour of the water is like then add inhibitor before refill. As far as I know there is no detrimental effect from mixing different inhibitors in the system water if you just wanted to throw some in. You don't need to isolate pump.

t80si and rebranded models of the same sold at Homebase,Argos etc I seem to remember are very simlar layout inside. The electrical terminal block may be a couple of inches different but the water connection is the same. The later T80xr models I think have the terminal block further away still...

Not always going to be a leak.This is also a symptom of a faulty pressure vessel. Do a search on here. It may be possible to recharge it-unless the diaphragm is gone.

truth is though, i have worked with more than one installer for whom the tightness test is about on the same level of importance as doing a clearout on the van, i.e. he means to do it all the time, but only gets round to it every other easter holiday.

Gas is nothing to be afraid of... if you follow some rules and can make a reliable joint(not the cannabis variety). I think the diy'ers who come on here asking how to do it at least have a shred of responsibility and are probably going to do it safely or not at all. But then there are those...

This has got me thinking as I did a boiler change recently where the circs to the cylinder had been run in 15mm grey Hep,so obviously not been in for donkey's years and the last couple of feet up to the cylinder were blocked up quite severely, so much so that the boiler was shutting down. So...

Auto means it will come on and go off according to the time periods you have set.

DON'T use the prv to drain off. Quickest way to cause it to malfunction. Dirt from system gets on to the seating.

It doesn't necessarily need powerflushing.A chemical only clean and a magnaclean might be adequate. Can't see how the Hep pipe is solely to blame.hepworth recommend the barrier pipe for central heating.If it's non barrier pipe it will have allowed some air into the system but i can't see that...