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I have to clean my showerhead monthly as well as an internal scale trap and scale filter in my Triton. http://www.mirashowers.co.uk/onlinecatalog/pdf/1060736_w2_f_mira_sport_max_10.8_kw.pdf page 23 suggests cleaning filter, though I can't believe these's no trap as mine is full of it afetr a...

I used to have a Stanley device which claimed to detect live wires, etc, and I seem to remember each time you want to use it, it has to calibrated on an area of wall where it is known there is nothing lurking underneath. Defeats the object really, but at the same time it kind of makes sense.

But what if you were carrying out a (periodic) inspection with a view to giving a report when the property had a complete rewire in, say, sometime in the 60/70's? Which, or what parameters would one go by?

Ah I see. Am I right in thinking with the 4 pin, one can do away with the traditional starter and have a HF electronic ballast?

I thought these units were available with a separate starter? Ot at least they used to be?

This system is not correct. I would recommend that you get a PIR - Periodic Inspection Report from a competent & reputable electrician. Lord knows what else could be lurking. And we hope your son gets better soon.

Or, if the OP pulled out and replaced each fuse one-by-one during the 'test', then each leg of the ring could be supplied by 2 different fuses.

I think you'll find that you do indeed have a 2-way switch, and not a 3-way. I had to wear nappies before I could walk.

WE WILL TRY TO HELP!! CAN YOU TELL US THE MODEL NUMBER!! DO YOU HAVE THE INSTRUCTIONS/MANUAL??

Can you pull the oven out completely, remove some panels and check the cables? Perhaps the main supply is fried rendering everything inoperable.

You're correct. I can only assume they've uploaded the same picture as they look the same at the front. I would contact the seller and verify you want a 2 gang, 2 way.

I've given up looking on Manrose's site for instructions. Looks like water has done some damage in your pic. Are the connections to this cable accessible? I would inspect these, but turn power off at Consumer Unit (fusebox) before you go sticking your hand in ceiling/wall voids.

If you get 2 gang, 2 way, you'll cover all scenarios in this situation.

Are the lights mains powered, or is there a transformer? Slightly OT, but in my time working in a hotel, I'm amazed at the lengths French (and others) guests will go to in order to power their devices, and not by an adaptor. They just shove whatever they can into the earth to open the shutter...

Is the new switch made of metal?

As was said above, first check your flex, with a multi-meter, to establish if there is a permanant live, switched live, earth & neutral. If there is, then read instructions again to ensure you connected it correctly (and bought the correct fan). The reason I say this is because some fans are 2...

Fair comment John. Unless someone else is daft enough to run cables in copper pipe to their boiler, or hot water cylinder!

Yes a spring bender inside the pipe; I've never tried the techniques you describe, but with the correct size spring and PVC at room temperature you shouldn't need to heat up. In my opinion its better to have a go with PVC first, then move on to steel conduit another time. Its a darn site cheaper...

Possibly now that the shower is working properly, it is pulling a greater current through the cables, and as you had a faulty switch already this was the final straw. Check that the cables are the right size for your shower as they may have damaged your old ceiling switch through overheating.

Don't use copper, someone now, or in the future, may think its a disused water (or gas) pipe. Why not have a go with PVC conduit? Its fun, it allows room for error, looks nice, offers mechanical protection, and you can use a bender. Edit: "and you can use a bender." Hopefully you know I mean...