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No. The oven does not need a 13A fuse. If it were part of a cooker (in the UK) it would get a 32A MCB. That they state fuse in this day and age and a rating less than the cable supplied proves they do not know what they are talking/writing about.

Yes, but it states 13A fuse.

Fuses etc. are for protecting the cable. What will they do in Boschland and the surrounding countries where such things (13A fuses) are not used? If the appliance requires internal overload protection the manufacturer will have fitted it.

Ok. It's up to them.

It's up to you.

Ok. Typo? Should be two loop lives to new switch L (the two wires from old switch L1) and one switched live to new switch L1 (the one wire from old switch COM).

No, you said it was 3-gang. Ok - I think. Just looks complicated. Do one bit at a time. Several parts all wired the same.

HMMT - All Neutrals must be connected together. Then it might be like this:

Does this help you understand better?

All Neutrals - 2, 3, 4 or more - must be connected together. IMPORTANT: Does the original switch control one or two lights?

Could be either. Above the lump might be too hot.

IF it is the supply. If they go to two lights that you now want to switch separately If they are loop in and loop out then no. Yes. I don't know what you mean. All Neutrals - 2 or 3 - have to be connected together.

Everything has an IP rating - even if it would be IP00. 2.25m is the relevant height - from the floor. Above that then it doesn't matter.

How high is the ceiling? From the floor level. What is the IP rating of the light and what did they say it should be?

Is the room above also your property?

Actually not until 12:45am (00:45) and 01:45 in the Summer time as I don't think they bother changing them. Then cheap rate until 08:45 now and 09:45 Summer.

I doubt the OP knew. I wouldn't call what Ebee wrote 'having a go'. Why do so many people on here object so much to mistakes being corrected? Surely it is better for everyone.

Never assume. Are you saying the current will rise with lower voltage?

The Wattage figures quoted for your appliances will have been given for 240V therefore 13200W/240V=55A. To calculate for 230V is not simply a matter of dividing 13200 by 230 because If the supply for these items is actually 230V then the Wattage and Amperage will be lower - that's how it works...