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Not uncommon, i would say 80% of my calls for failed downlights are caused by the terminal lego block melting, can be loose connection sometimes a faulty transformer but to be honest the transformers are more likely to shut down before that level of damage is caused at the block if its a faulty...

Agree with skenk. Also on the freezer most come fitted with a 13a as per the manufacturers specs. Start up currents, defrost cucles etc, Same with fridges and most TVs on paper dont need a 10A fuse for an 85watt power consumption but thats what you get.

Rayg, i had a similar problem with my place in France. Are you on mains sewerage or a tank and if a tank does it have a pump. My problem was the pump. If it rained whilst we wernt there the one tank would get to the required level and the pump would operate but then trip the supply. Fortunately...

RF Thanks and sorry to have to ask but are we talking about another cut out switch other than the one that is on the stat control (the little reset button not the temp dial) and if so where would that cut out be sited, i cant see anything in the element/stat housing nor any leads/cables/wires...

No the AGA heats it too but not sufficient for baths etc. The AGA is still heating it to its "normal" level

That was the cable result, from CU to switch to terminals with the stat and element disconnected. I havent tested the element to earth. I did a continuity check on it and that came in ok. Dont think the plumber was homeserve .

The plumber had set the stat temp to full on, I turned this down on the new one and the lady says she has tried turning it up but the water still is not heating up enough. I can only see one reset button and thats on the stat housing i cant see anything on the new element.

Ericmark, thanks for the response. There is a second source of heat for the water, an oil AGA. The stat in the immersion has a reset button and until i go back tomorrow i dont know if this needs to be reset. However i understood that this only cuts out if the water temp gets too hot. As the lady...

Im flumoxed. A plumber has recently changed both the heating element and thermostat in the immersion heater. About a week after the lady called me because the water was not getting hot. The plumber said it must be an electrical fault, so the lady called me. I checked the element and...

Also before you go any further are you sure its not the pump thats causing the fault ? Far more likely the fault is in the pump than the cable if properly installed .

Agree with Spark123 but to add would the person doing it DIY know if the existing shower circuit was safe or not. There's a big differnce between working and it being safe.

If you are going vertical you can chase up to 1/3 of the wall thickness. If you have standard brick wall then yep 50mm is too deep but just in case you have other material wall the limit is a 1/3rd

Check the 3 amp fuse i have come across several places where they have built an extension for the bathroom and taken the light supply from the existing socket supply via a 3a fcu Are they elv lights ie 12v ? if yes can you check if you have power to the transformer ? if yes then it sounds as...

Thanks but it is digital.

I thought by nulling the cables you are doing that (indirectly anyway)

Hi the tester is a megger 1552 and i agree the R1+R2 is (seemed to me) high. The batteries are showing 9.8v i was told that once they get to 9 then its time to change them. Thanks every one for the replies

The meter was calibrated about 4 months ago so i thinks thats ok cables went with it. They were nulled before i took the readings. I will look at the isolator and give it a clean.

Correct and disconnected from the shower. Just to clarify i havent measured Ze its just the text book figure

About 10mtrs max. Sorry meant to also add its on a 40 amp 60898 breaker on the RCD side

My 8.5Kw shower recently sprang a leak, the saddle connector for the water supply split. Any way whilst the front was off i took the oportunity to run some tests on it. Its on 10mm cable to a 30ma RCD with isolators in between with a neon indicator. Its a TNCS supply The R1+R2 reading...